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DonTPushIt
Force Sensitive
Joined: 06 Apr 2015
Posts: 14
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 Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 8:02 pm Post subject: Not currently running thermostat. Do I just need a RJES heat |
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Just found out my ej20 conversion is running no thermostat. To enable me to install one without running the risk of overheating the engine in the summer when the heaters are off - do I need:
http://www.rjes.com/html/heater_bypass_adaptor.html
I do not have a reverse coolant manifold and would prefer to keep things undisturbed if possible. Will the bypass be all I need? Also, where can u buy online an oem subaru thermostat? |
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Kai
Jedi Guardian
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 1226
Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
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| Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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If you have a heater and wish to turn it off for the summer then yes you will require some sort of bypass.
Another way to do it is to get a ford KA/PUMA heater valve for £10 on eBay and a PWM controller. Then you can have adjustable heat via a twisty knob.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251590330855
Perhaps?!?
_________________
Think......
Don't sleep and drive!!! |
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DonTPushIt
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Joined: 06 Apr 2015
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Well it turns out I already had a thermostat and RJES bypass already.
My issue is that the van has trouble staying warm. I have fitted in a brand new Subaru thermostat (tested to ensure fully operational,) flushed entire system and replaced 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Followed RJES instructions for bleeding and all seems well on that front. All pipes are getting warm both the front and rear heater generate heat. The rear one heats up a lot quicker and does not require revs. Whilst the front heater only seems to work when the engine has RPM's. When the heaters are on or the van is travelling at a constant speed I cannot keep the temp gauge away from cold.
I have 2 lines of thought -
1. that my 78C thermostat opens 2 early - maybe need a warmer one?
2. I am losing too much heat through the pipes running under the van but surely the thermostat should take this into account?
Any opinions appreciated? |
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DonTPushIt
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Joined: 06 Apr 2015
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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Just found this on the samba. He's describing my problem but the only thing is I'm getting the issue at 15+C as opposed to -10C??? I
| Quote: | Hi LeftCoastKiteboarding,
I have had the same issue with my subaru conversion for years. Temperature went down, barely touching the white area of the temp gauge when I was driving at -10C or below. Hopefully I wasn't using the van much at those temp. Everything fine at stanstill but once I drive fast ( highway speed ) the engine temp wgoes way down. Just like you describe.
I fixed the issue by adding pipe insulation over the coolant pipe under the van between front and rear and also on the heater line from front to rear. My take on this issue is the wind under the van is overcooling the coolant line and keep the engine temp too low.
Mine is a subaru conversion with a bypass thermostat spacer so the engine is always fed by the return line of heater independentely of the thermostat opening so the engine was receiving cold coolant from the heater keeping the engine temp too low. I can't remember if the the stock 2.1 is plumb that way.
I'm sure some will say it's your thermostat that failed open, but I have tried 3 different thermostats with the same sad result. Only the insulated line fixed the issue.
I use hhardware store style pipe insulation ( super cheap, like 15$ total). You can try this, took an hour and lots of zip ties.
Hope this will help!
Thanks
Mat |
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