Heater Matrix, Subaru 1303

[wedgedout]

Ok.

So to cut a long story short, I'm looking to buy a 1303 beetle that's got an un-finished Subaru Conversion, I want the power, and I want a heater that works so I can demist the screen!

It's got a rad mounted, no cooling pipes run, a scoop fabricated, and from what I understand, no heating.

So I'm working on the assumption, it's got a looped hose on the heater outlets.

What I'd like to do, is find a suitable matrix and fabricate a box to sit it in under the rear seat opposing the battery.

From there, I could duct using the heater channel outlets and a squirrel cage fan which means I could use the stock heater controls, and re-route the heater box flaps cables for the old setup, to control flaps on the box, which would either divert flow to the outside of the car if the heater is off, or back into the channels if on, with a clean air feed to the fan picking up clean air from one of the heat exchanger inlets and exhausting from the other.

Sound feasible?

So.. my questions are as follows..

What matrix is suitable for this?

Do any come with flapped up enclosures that I can re-work? or should I break out the MDF and GRP?

I guess any squirrel cage fans can be used?, I was gonna pinch something from a polo or similar and mount the controls for it in the 1303 dash somewhere, should give me the extra speeds and such like.

Does anyone forsee any cooling issues if I do this?,

[72panelvan]

That's basically what I did but in a bay window. Had a ford escort fan mounted under the floor and the heater core boxed above the floor, connected to the vw pipe work so you've got the stock heater controls.



Works a charm but this is on a vw diesel, I seem to remember that the Subaru needs the heater plumbed in in a certain way?

[wedgedout]

Aye.

Subaru's need to have the matrix in with constant flow.

So if the heater controls shut down the matrix, rather than direct a flap, then you have to ensure that there's a trickle flow bypass in place. RJES does a valve for this, my bus had a couple of LPG T Pieces in and a pipe between the matrix and that didn't cause it to get hot.

Obviously, cos I've got nothing at the moment, I can make this one any way I want, so I'll go with constant matrix feed, as per stock suby, with flap direction.

[1303Steve]

Hi

Early on with my set-up I used a Toyota Troop carrier rear seat heater unit under the back seat, I had used this previously on a WBX powered 1302.

For various overheating reasons I disconnected it, I tried running it with a 4 way heater tap thinking that this would not upset return water flow that the Subaru motor needs.

To be quiet honest I don't think I need a heater as I get so much heat transfer through my bulkhead.

Steve
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STI powered 1303 now running
G50 box, Boxster/944 brakes, Adaptronic 1280E ecu, PWR intercooler etc

[ricola]

Do what I did and mount the matrix under the bonnet. Works great with stock controls and doesn't rot your channels out like the stock system..
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http://www.ricola.co.uk

[wedgedout]

Took a look at your setup Ricola.

What are you using to actuate your cooling fan?, and where does it pick up the signal front?

Reason I ask, is I want to make sure I'm cooling the circuit when the engine is warm, not when the radiator is, as the thermal loss may cause me some issues.

Also, what temperature does your thermostat open at?

[ricola]

my cooling fans use the stock ecu control.
My thermostat is spec'd at about 80 degrees from memory, I'm using the 924 gauge which doesn't have a numerical scale so not sure what the actual temps are. I just know where on the scale the thermostat opens and the fans come on/off.
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http://www.ricola.co.uk