Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:02 pm Post subject: over heating,new ideas VW T25
hi all,vans still not working and has never in the two years of doing my subaru conversion, vans overheating every time i use it,had the heads skimmed and new gaskets,new pipes from rjes,new radiator,new thermostat.new everything,still doesnt work,so took out the thermostat drilled a hole in it and it worked for abit for a week,then started overheating,and when i say it worked for abit,it didnt reach temp then overheated then cooled then overheated,I class that as an improvement,then back to normal and overheated all the time,so took the thermostat out completly,then bought a discovery td5 inline thermostat and put that between the water manifold and pipe to the rad,this also did not work,new disco thermostat is opening and pipe to rad is getting hot,but not heating the rad and returning back to engine, has any one got an idea for why my van is so poo or has anyone got an idea of the very simplest cooling system i can put in my van so it keeps cool,im not arsed about having heating in my van, just a van than understand how to cool its self. (the original system i had in my van was the one on rjes website and my van is a vw t25.
Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 7:22 pm Post subject: Overheats
Reading everything you have tried with my limited knowledge if it was me id be investigating coolant flow thru the heater matrix to see if its blocked or set to cold stopping the flow. Thats just my thoughts based on everything ive been reading trying to work out my own cooling system.
cheers for the reply,im going to try taking the heater matrix out tomorrow to see if it makes a difference,but knowing my van it wont make any difference.two years of breaking down ,two subaru legacy non turbo 2,5 engines been in my van,6000 grand of wasted money,two fuel pumps blown up,never make it anywere ,two lots of skimmed heads,two sets of new gaskets,new rads,many many thermostats,two new water pumps,many sensors been bought as my poo engine constantly over fuels,pretty much a poo idea,im going to go in the shed and dig my old slow original 1,9 petrol engine out,at least il get to go camping and use my van,subaru power is wank,im not fixing the overheating problem if i cant get it going tomorrow,il drive it till it blows up,im happy doing 50 mph with the old engine,
Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:58 pm Post subject: That sucks !!
F me that sounds like an unfair amount of greif for anyone. Everything ive read says there has to be flow on the heater flow or it will overheat so id try just looping the curcit with a bit of hose to see what happened. Good luck really hope it starts working for you to get it all in and stumble at this point is really gutting
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 1226 Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:18 pm Post subject:
Hey up, Sounds like your having a real nightmare with this. Providing you cooling system is awesome there is no reason Subaru power should suit your needs, trust me having turbo Subaru power is pretty awesome.
I've no idea to the RJES coolant circuit, I've copied ES's. Listening to what you've wrote I'd be concerned by the cooling capacity of your radiator along with your coolant design.
The circuit I've got in mine which is ES's circuit plus the turbo extras will gladly cool the engine either in the garage stationary or on a fast road section.
There is no reason to be having so much grief.
Check you radiator for us and that it's flowing coolant and also that their is airflowing through it. _________________ Think......
Joined: 07 Aug 2009 Posts: 208 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:12 am Post subject:
Hi
Were having 40 + Celsius days down here now, after a few issues that I had and were diagnosed here my bug will sit in traffic or blast down a free way with no issues.
Keep digging to get to the bottom of it.
Steve _________________ STI powered 1303 now running
G50 box, Boxster/944 brakes, Adaptronic 1280E ecu, PWR intercooler etc
what is ES ,s circuit design and how do i find it, i want one,whats in my van clearly doesnt work,the only thing i havent changed is the header tank,iv heard about golf or frontera ones,Iv thrown everything at my van now,everything is new,I dont want to give up on it,buts its got that bad iv converted my t4 builders van into a camper and bought a transit for work,bad times,when you say check the capacity of my radiator and flow,its a brand new rad from brickwerks for a vw t25. when i take the thermostat out completly the water circulates and doesnt heat up, so in my thinking the rad is ok,
taken the whole heater matrix out and put a short pipe to join the two pipes,made no difference whats so ever,just going to take thermostats out ,heater matrix out and just have a rad and header tank and wait for the engine to blow up like i did with the first one ,so i can go and waste more money on a third engine,this engine doesnt work anyway,it over fuels constantly ,is slower than my old orginal 1.9 engine, sounds like a tank thats about to conk out, failed an emissions test,has no power,gargles through the air intake like a crawling dog when i put my foot down,just general wank,nothing worked to fix it,iv changed every sensor,coil pack ,leads ,spark plugs,the entire air manifold and injecters, lambda ,had two wiring harnesses made,they were a pretty penny, changed the ecu and mobilizer and key,had the timing done twice,made no difference.I changed everything in the engine bay apart from the main engine block,got all the parts off another car i bought,im sorry im sure other peoples are fine but this sh#t doesnt work for me, Makes me wonder when theres 1000 topics on here off f##ked subaru problems,think its more the peoples whos conversions work are blest from god,Iv obviously sinned to much in a past life,
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 1226 Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:18 pm Post subject:
I was suggesting you check the radiator as I was unsure to the condition to your current set up which you've now clarified as being new so that's not going to be the problem.
The ES (elusive stranger ) circuit I've now come to realise is very similar to what you have. The difference being ES has a bay window with underbelly radiator. I've no idea how to a successful bleeding of a type 25 goes but the dofference between ES and RJES is that the radiator has a bleed pipe from the radiator, also ES has the frontera header tank which has an additional port for a bleed pipe.
When yours over heats does do it so with the radiator hot? Also are your heater matrixs getting hot?
I'm thinking possible air locks here. Either at the matrix or rad. I've got the ES circuit further modified to include a bleed point for my matrix as that for me was the problem and kept overheating my engine.
When you remove your heater matrix, can you try it at the engine end. So link the black pipe above the right hand head to the bottom of your header thank. Have you got the RJES coolant manifold?
Also your wiring loom, who did the work? Have you got your cold start wired up?
Finally, your timing belt, your comment to gargling through the air in take is a classic symptom to incorrect timing. Not dissing your capabilitys but can you be certain it's timed correctly, have your checked the woodruff key on the crankshaft timing belt pulley, I've seen plenty of motors classed as ruined by a folded woodruff key placing the crankshaft into an Incorrect position to the belt. _________________ Think......
Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 8:33 pm Post subject: cooling
Been thinking on this today and all the bleeding (in more ways than one) problems folk seem to have, Porsche have a vaccum bleeder tool ive used (on a Porsche) and VW have a nigh identical tool for there new engine that run electric curculation pumps as opposed to water pumps. The two times I used it on a Porsche I ran them up after and had to top up literally half a vending coffee cup of coolant. The tool screws on instead of the expansion tank cap, hooks up to and airline with one valve open the gauge on it drops to a green area then u shut the valve and see if it hold vac ( leak test really) if it dosent a second vac normally seals if a hose just hasnt bedded. When vac holds you open a second valve that has a pipe in a drum of premixed coolant that gets sucked in. Im seriously considering buying a generic variant ive seen on ebay at £35 even if it just checks for leaks its got to save cash on the price of coolant
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