splity reduction hubs

[famous phil]

Hi , this question is just regarding the reduction portal type hubs splined shaft fitted to the splitys , if good bearings are installed what sort of power/torque can be put through these hubs ? - no drag starts or abusive wheelspins

Does anyone do upgraded units for these ?
could they put up with a good torque figure = being able to sit above 70mph up/down hill for a continuous 400 miles -
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Auto Union Munga Jeep ,T4 2.4td , T4 2.5tdi ,Mercedes S Class on LPG , 66 splity deluxe , GP mk1, 3 type 25s 1 with 1.9dt pug engine + 1 with N/A pug engine ,,there are 6 t25s with pug power in Darlington

[Bigbadbugga]

Some of the Baja and rail builders use them for off roading with big rubber on, so I suppose they must be able to take a fair bit of abuse
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Located near Liverpool.

Building a full custom 1972 Beetle with an EJ25 (n/a sohc),Porsche 944 IRS conversion and Rjes bellhousing.

[famous phil]

here's a good question , because of the forces of the drive shafts turning opposite to the wheels it tends to lift the rear end on splits when accelerating , I'm not sure if to keep RH's (reduction hubs) were there supposed to be and fit a tie bar like on a bay or mount the RH's direct to the box what would you think I know its best to keep the unsprung weight down
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Auto Union Munga Jeep ,T4 2.4td , T4 2.5tdi ,Mercedes S Class on LPG , 66 splity deluxe , GP mk1, 3 type 25s 1 with 1.9dt pug engine + 1 with N/A pug engine ,,there are 6 t25s with pug power in Darlington

[13 window deluxe]

BIN THEM they can take a fair amount of power phil seen them with reasonable 1776 motorc etc but there noisy and more often than not leak oil in the rear brakes unless rebuilt, if you bin them off and straight axle the van its all bolt on, you have dropped it by 4" without increasing the negative camber, reduced friction & decreased the amount of components that can fail in the driveline, and upped the overall gearbox ratio in one hit with no other mods Is this for your split Phil? What motor you thinking of running? if it's a tdi dont bother i can assure you that the type1 box cannot take the torque despite what supposedly top gearbox builders tell you me and family van can both vouch for that
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1964 rat 13 window deluxe 1Z tdi,
1975 rhd twin slider tintop (TBA)
1991 golf 2 gti with tweaked AHU tdi,

previous tdi swaps: gone but not forgotten
1979 rhd twin slider tintop bay ahu 1.9tdi
1990 T25 1Z 1.9tdi
1993 suzuki samurai with 1Z 1.9tdi

[famous phil]

looking at fitting engine/box from an Audi A4 , hence the use of the R,H's ,
If I was to leave the RH's in place and fit flanges drive shafts then will need to add a tie bar like on a bay , ( local breakers have a Porsche 944 and the rear tie arms may be of use ? only thing is under acceleration the rear will rise but the camber will be quite plumb so not too comical

Or use the 944 arms and hubs ( or other compatible items ) fit the RH's to the box which will mean less noise / unsprung weight / the rear will squat under acceleration ,

I'm away from my splity at the moment which does not help as need more measurements rear valance to front gearbox mount , how much room is there to play with , I've a figure of 42" which for some reason does not quite add up

I've got a passat/a4 box stripped at the moment and there seems a lot more work than the scooby box to be able to flip the diff
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Auto Union Munga Jeep ,T4 2.4td , T4 2.5tdi ,Mercedes S Class on LPG , 66 splity deluxe , GP mk1, 3 type 25s 1 with 1.9dt pug engine + 1 with N/A pug engine ,,there are 6 t25s with pug power in Darlington

[13 window deluxe]

so what your suggesting is making/using a a-arm (ala bay window irs) to suport the original spring plate and reduction box instead of it being tied together and pivoting on the gearbox axle tubes?

It could be done if you fabbed up a a-arm that went from the 4 reduction box mounting bolts on the back of the spring plate and tied this into a mounting on the rear axle tube like on a bay. You would need to remove the outer swing axle tube fit a additional support bearing and seal to the rear of the hub as the inner drive shaft is usually supported by the diff in the centre of the van, the reduction box input/driveshaft would have to be shortened to just past the hub the some sort of flange fitted to allow a irs type shaft to bolt in to place to mate with the audi box.

In short it could be done but it is a large amount of work fabbing arms, machining hubs, fitting/wiring engine and box to find either the reduction boxes strip teeth off within weeks of being on the road or they overheat and spew there oil out every time you drive

remember the most power the split boxes ever had to cope with from the factory was from a 1500cc motor with about 45bhp and 50lb/ft of torque that did 65mph flat out. when you start giving the 100bhp+ and most importantly 200lb/ft of torque and start getting over the magic 70mph mark they will get very stressed. Stock 90bhp tdi's are know for braking standard 091 box's in t25's due to the torque so in my opinion it would be a big risk with reduction boxes but saying that if it payed off there would a big reward the a4/passat boxes are quite strong, tall geared, cheap, well suited to the tdi's power band and you wouldnt need a adaptor plate to mount the engine
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1964 rat 13 window deluxe 1Z tdi,
1975 rhd twin slider tintop (TBA)
1991 golf 2 gti with tweaked AHU tdi,

previous tdi swaps: gone but not forgotten
1979 rhd twin slider tintop bay ahu 1.9tdi
1990 T25 1Z 1.9tdi
1993 suzuki samurai with 1Z 1.9tdi

[famous phil]

I've got a spare set of reduction hubs and have striped them down they have support bearings so will just need a seal on the input side , the gears would have been better if double helical much quieter and more contact area without any axial forces ,
there basically like an oil pump , so hopping to keep them cool by flowing oil through them ,
like you say lots of money saved no adaptor not messing with starters and clutch so the savings can be used on the reduction hubs ,
the hubs can be bought for reasonable money and could carry a spare machined set until happy with there performance

not sure of engine code on the A4 engine I've spotted but it's fitted with a VNT so will think it'll be a 110bhp and is just the 5 speed
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Auto Union Munga Jeep ,T4 2.4td , T4 2.5tdi ,Mercedes S Class on LPG , 66 splity deluxe , GP mk1, 3 type 25s 1 with 1.9dt pug engine + 1 with N/A pug engine ,,there are 6 t25s with pug power in Darlington

[13 window deluxe]