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has anyone tried this in there t25

 
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jonathan
Padawan
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Joined: 09 Dec 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:03 am    Post subject: has anyone tried this in there t25 Reply with quote

hi all, had abit of a ruff ride with my subaru conversion ,just blown my second engine up,went through two engines ,both with new head gaskets,new rad,piping,new everything,basically my van overheats all the time,water doesnt circulate properly,thermostat opens sometimes depends what mood its in,I have just bought another donner car ,2 litre impreza ej20. this is the last chance for scooby power, if it doesnt work im going back to dirty diesel, my van was a watercooled petrol t25, my idea was when looking at the new car yesterday, can i not mount the engine as normal,and mount the radiator of the subaru in the back of the van aswell,so it looks just like it does under the bonnet of the subaru ,so getting rid of the long runs of pipes under my van and the airlocks,I no im going to get responses saying their t25 works with the vw water system but mine doesnt, my set up is the one on rjes website,also no money has been spared in my van, im 5 grand deep now with all the new shinney parts, my thinking is ,it works in the car now with the normal system ,so just plonk it in as it is, I no the rad is not going to be getting as much air as being at the front of the scooby but iv seen bays and splittys with scoops and things to vent the air, any thoughts on this,has anyone done something like this
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Moominbus
Force Sensitive
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Joined: 09 Sep 2014
Posts: 22
Location: Isle of Skye, U.K

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, sorry you are having such trouble. I'm sure wiser heads will be able to advise soon but I know that the general opinion is that this doesn't work. Airflow in the back only works for the lawn mower engines because they have fans sucking in large volumes of air. If you put a rad in the back in depends on electric fans pushing (or pulling) air through constantly, they aren't designed for constant running (I think the bearings pack up) and it also means that if you get stuck in a traffic jam you don't have any additional cooling as the fans would already be running.
It would be a shame to lose another engine, there are very smart people on here who have made the system work and are very free with their advice, all the best whatever you decide!! Happy
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jonathan
Padawan
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Joined: 09 Dec 2012
Posts: 51

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers for the imformation,the system everyone seems to use,just will not work with my van for some reason,I cant see what else I can try,as for the cooling system,its a brand new radiator ,new pipes,new rjes pipes,new thermostat,new engine x3, new head gasket kit x2,the system i use is the one on rjes website,I really cant see what else i can try,
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jonathan
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Joined: 09 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking at the cooling section on here and looking at the pics,there is loads of bays and bugs and splittys done like this,also one that has it mounted on the roof rack,I feel this is the future for my van.also has anyone every used water wetter,its surpose to keep engines cooler and happier
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Sydney
Padawan
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Joined: 22 Sep 2012
Posts: 55

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jonathan, it's not ideal but you could try running without a thermostat. I've been doing so for 2 years now. It takes a few miles to reach temperature, during which time you have to go steady, but once up to temperature it stays in the high 80s/90s. Mine has a scoop but for yours you could consider partially covering the radiator like they did during winter in the 60s and 70s.

Another thing you could try is to install a remote thermostat on the outlet from the engine instead of the Subaru setup that's in the return to the engine. There may be issues about thermal shock etc. There is a brief discussion on them on here, in the Kooling section under E30 thermostat.
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jonathan
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Joined: 09 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried running without a thermostat for a while,but my t25 never gets up to temperature like this,and seemed to use loads of petrol as it was always in cold start,I tried covering half the rad and it didnt improve it very much,the heads are blown now so even without the thermostat it builds up loads of pressure and blows the water pipes off,
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whereufromnosecity
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Joined: 22 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jonathan wrote:
I tried running without a thermostat for a while,but my t25 never gets up to temperature like this,and seemed to use loads of petrol as it was always in cold start,I tried covering half the rad and it didnt improve it very much,the heads are blown now so even without the thermostat it builds up loads of pressure and blows the water pipes off,


I have you sorted you bus out?
I had similar troubles to you when i first put my scooby engine in, popped a few pipes and the heater matrix, turned out to the header tank cap being a very poor copy and not venting the pressure in the cooling system fitted a new one from brickwerks and all has been good for the last 3 months
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1303Steve
Jedi Knight
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Joined: 07 Aug 2009
Posts: 208
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same issue with a replacement radiator cap when I had 2.1 WBX motor in my old 1302.

Are you using the heater circuit, how is it setup?
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STI powered 1303 now running
G50 box, Boxster/944 brakes, Adaptronic 1280E ecu, PWR intercooler etc
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