Fuel Tank mods

[ElusiveStranger]

Post your mods here

Here's my first tank
Tank
I had two 10mm plumbing fittings (brass compression, internal threaded section 'spun off') silver soldered onto the tank.




I thought this was the best way to go to keep accessability to the lines. A fair few seem to do returns via one of the breathers (or the filler neck) but if the line perishes it's a pig to change. It also means you don't have to drill a hole for the return. Having them underneath gives you chance to do a visual inspection every so often.


Because I wanted the return fuel to be as far away as poss from the feed pipe I bent some 8mm copper pipe (gas hob/oven fitting) to approx 90°



This had to be inserted through the fuel gauge hole. I'd inserted some stiff wire into the pipe so I could guide it through the fitting. When it was through the fitting I soldered some 10mm pipe and a flange to hold the fuel hose.


Looking through the gauge hole I nipped up the fitting holding the pipe in place. Then when it was secure I pressed the pipe down so it exits close to the bottom of the tank.


Kai's Tank (thanks for the use of the photos)
This is how Kai's done his earlier tank (threaded union already on his tank)
Take the original petrol fitting nut, pop along to a hydraulics shop (Pirtek etc) get them to spin off the end of a fitting & braze/solder/weld it to the VW nut (new are available from Heritage/JKs/Coolair etc)



(That's a 12.7mm OD, 9.44 ID fitting BTW)

For my 2nd tank I used 1 12mm Hydro fitting & 1 10mm plumber's fitting, spun off the threads on the inside of the tank & had Evercold (cheers bud) silver solder these onto the tank. (Will add a photo later)
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[Kai]

Just to finish off the info on my Tank I'm building a Late shape type 3 Notchback.

I discovered that the fuel injection tank has an internal swirl pot. So I found and brought one of those but beware as although they almost look the same there is a difference between a RHD tank and a LHD tank. Dont ask!!!!


Swirl pot and return pipe plumbed away from the fuel feed to the pump looking through the filler hole.

















Making a RHD carb tank into a FI tank using LHD scap metal cluttering my garage.










I'll grind the welds back, they'll never know




I chose to plumb the return feed away from the pump feed to avoid sucking the hot fuel from the engine back to the pump as over time the fuel can boil due to repeat recirculation. so by sending it else where the engine is feed cooler fuel from the bottom of the tank and not hot fuel returned from the engine.

Also if reconditioning a fuel tank I can only recommend the kit supplied by Frost

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=8223&frostProductName=Car+Tank+Repair+Kit&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&CatID=28&SubCatID=




I was advised to run a 12MM OD outlet to the pump, this helps to keep a larger then neccesary supply (preventing fuel starvation) to the pump which in turn aids in cooling the pump too. After the pump and filter I have then dropped the the fuel hose down to 8MM which is the size the Subaru requires.