Only question I have: Do you fully press and release the clutch cilinder?
I hope so!! I've designed it to use the full stroke of the clutch master cylinder which is 30mm.
I'd thought about the difficulty of bleeding the slave cylinder alright with the bleed nipple now on the underside of it. Not looking forward to it!! I think I'll look into removing it from the gearbox, holding it "right way up" while bleeding it and once all the air is gone, refitting it to the gearbox. In my head it should work
That Is what I tried. Problem is, you are building up pressure in the master cilinder that way. In fact, so much pressure that your master cilinder will explode. That is what mine did at least. I had to buy a new one.
Even if it does not explode, you will have to put it back fully extended. Which means that you will manually have to operat the clutch by pushing the cilinder in the cave where it is supposed to go. One simply has not got the strength to do this.
REally, that wont work. I tried it may times. Reverse bleeding (google it) is the solution.
btw, love the way you did the clutch. My clutch cilinder is sticking much further down! Goint to copy your idea! _________________ 1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
I discovered this tonight, just like you say. The slave is fully extended when bleeding it and it has to be compressed to refit. I bent part of the linkage at the pedal when i pressed it! Back to the drawing board on that. I'll Google reverse bleeding/ filling. Thanks for the tip.
I've also been working on the gear shifter arrangement. I simply could not bring myself to cut a hole in the cab floor for the cable shifter base and lever. It wouldn't go in the stock position because of the brackets for the handbrake etc beneath so I Kay under the van for couple of hours tonight figuring out how to make the shift work with the stock shift rod. I have it figured out now and I've ordered done spherical/rose joints to make up another linkage.
I have used the stock shifter en most of the original linkage all the way to the back. Than, using two u-joints from the steering column of a Jaguar xj40 (the pics show a different u joint, but this has been replaced as the old one had too much play). I connected this to the TDI gearbox. Shifts very smooth. Only issue is that the even numbers are up, and uneven numbers down. So opposite to regular cars. But this takes just a minute to get used to. I like the fact that my interior looks stock, while I can shift very smooth!
Thanks for the photos Wilfred. Since I have already made the linkage to operate the shift rod in the gearbox, I'll just adapt it sightly to work with the rod shift. I'll have the shift pattern as you would expect it to be, first week be left & forward etc
another dead end, another reinvention of the wheel!!!
I had the linkage made up at the gearbox end for the cable shift setup from the B4 Passat. I had it all in the van and the cables run halfway up the van. The next step was to mount the Passat shift lever assembly up the front, measure up the shortfall in the length of the cables and have a new pair made up to link the shifter to the gearbox.
I agonised over this for days and days and wasted loads of time under the cab floor, inside the cab, measuring, marking out, figuring, thinking, rethinking etc but there was simply no way this was going to be a runner without cutting a hole in the cab floor. It wouldn't go where the stock shifter goes, there's a huge bracket under the floor that carries the handbrake lever plus more. I couldn't afford to lose that. It would have fit in nicely just to the left of the stock shifter location. I had the angle grinder plugged in, goggles and ear muffs on and everything ready to cut the cab floor but I just couldn't do it.
So I had to revise about 80% of the cable shift linkage that I'd already made and invent a bunch of new parts to make the stock shift rod operate the Passat box and keep 1st where 1st should be at the gear lever etc. I've seen a few very simple conversions that use steering universal joints but the problem with most of them is that they put reverse where 1st should be and 5th where 2nd should be. Not good enough for me! I ordered some "rose" joints off ebay and used a couple of them where required. Can't think of a neater way of doing it. They're lovely bits of kit!
In basic terms, it's an extension to the stock shift rod that continues on over the top of the gearbox. There's a cross bar that comes out of this extension on the right side of the van that operates the forward/back pivoting lever. You have to reverse the throw because the box is at the wrong end of the vehicle. The cross bar also operates the up-down motion to move the gate between 1-2 and 3-4 and 5-R. That's what the rose joints are for, to allow a broad range of movement. Thankfully the up-down motion is the same for both the stock shift rod and the Passat box so a simple parallel motion setup works well there.
and the video: it's a bit clunkier than the cable setup. That's because it's all metal on metal, the cable setup had nylon bushes, plastic ended rods etc.
it sounds a bit "tappety" in the video and I discovered this evening why: I'd left the copper washer out from under two of the injectors!! Duh...
All sorted now and sounding much better. Gotta get it down off the axle stands now and see if it goes. Not too confident of the hydraulic clutch TBH but remains to be seen...
finally got it out for a spin tonight, well after dark!
a few issues raised:
the CVs click a little on the downshift, might adjust the nose of the gearbox down a little to ease the CV angle.
It doesn't feel like 110BHP at the moment, must plug in the code reader and see if maybe one of the sensors is giving a fault.
Reverse is hard to get but I discovered the reason: the bolt I used to secure the original Audi coupling to the shift rod on the gearbox is a touch too long and is catching on the gearbox casing. Swapping for a shorter bolt will sort it out. Gear shift system is working really well otherwise. Very happy with it
there's a small weep of coolant out of the temp sensor at the cylinder head. Should be as simple as swapping in a new O-ring hopefully.
all minor teething problems and to be expected. Not too worried about it, so far the conversion is a success!!
If the CV's click already, you really have to do something about it. I found out that the bus just hangs over in the bus, stretching them even moren and especially there the CV's were clicking.
Mine didn't feel like 110 bhp at first, but after working out several issues now It does! I am sure you will find a fault or two.
How did you run the pipes from turbo to inlet? Did you use intercooler? _________________ 1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
I lowered the engine by an inch, CV clicking problem cured
I found a boost leak, remade the shonky bit of recycled Golf boost pipe in steel, boost leak cured
may still have a MAP sensor issue, have to get a new sensor and try it again.
plugged it into VAGCOM, aside from the glow plug errors, brake pedal sensor error, alternator voltage error, the only semi-recurring problem is the MAP sensor. There is no glow plug system on the engine, the brake pedal switch has been bypassed and the alternator is no longer part of the engine management loom. Those error codes are nothing to worry about.
now, re the gearbox. I find that if I shift up to fifth too soon, it drops out of the boost range and the van actually starts SLOWING DOWN!! I have to wind it up to 60MPH in fourth to stand any chance of maintaining momentum or accelerating in fifth. For most "B" road driving, leaving it in fourth feels much better, it's right in the power band at about 50MPH, boost comes in easy and all is well with the world.
did a 70 mile round trip today, all is good. Didn't miss a beat
my gear linkage is transmitting gearbox noise into the cabin though. It's touching the body of the gearbox at one point. Ever see a mechanic use a screwdriver as a stethoscope? Kinda like that
I did the "timing belt tensioner in place of the power steering pump" trick. Can't remember where I saw it, someone on here. Tip of the hat to you, great idea!!
the intercooler has basically no fresh air flow to it. I reckon that just being part of the system can't hurt though, as the air expands passing through it, it's going to lose some heat. It has to be better than just piping the turbo straight to the inlet manifold.
the throttle potentiometer is in the engine bay in a bracket I made. It's operated by the throttle cable from the pedal. I've had this very bracket in three cars now, first my B4 Passat TDI conversion, then the mk1 Jetta TDI conversion and now the bus TDI conversion. It works. And I can rev the engine from the engine bay if needs be. It looks a bit skew-ways. That's because I didn't want to drill any new mounting holes. It picks up one of the stock points for the auxiliary air fan that used to be there.
The old Audi loom has been stripped of everything unnecessary and this is all that's left:
the ECU and the one remaining relay is in the bottom of the cabinet/spare wheel well on the left. I had to cut one hole here to pass the loom through. This hole was the only additional modification to the shell of the van I had to make to convert it to TDI.
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