heater matrix is hot on both pipes all the way,rad never gets hot and return pipe from rad to the engine never gets hot,unless i take the thermostat out,(i have bought 5 new thermostats from subaru just in case the first four were broken,this is how desperate i get,) I did link the pipe above the right hand head to the bottom of the header tank,pipe was about 8 inch long,made no difference, yep got the rjes coolant manifold, rjes did my wiring loom,and every product on my van is from rjes,(im not for one minute knocking rjes products,they are all of high quality and the service and help he has give me on my project has been brilliant,many big ups to rjes),iv just been un lucky,so we can rule out my project been made up of scrapyard parts,and bad wiring conversion, I think your on to something with the timming,I didnt do the timming a garage did it,sometimes the van runs well and fast( for a mile are two,its weird ,you can feel it going slow and gargling then its like a switch is turned on and instand boost,(mine is a non turbo,) if im driving and hear the gargle its pointless using the throttle as it makes no difference, I took it back to the garage to get them to check the timming but they said its in the same place as when they put the heads in,they marked it with a white pen,so they say, the first engine was really quick but this one is nothing special even when it does run right,Think il try the frontera header and a new sytem when i get the third engine,both the engines overheated,and yep got the rjes heater bypass,like i said everything is from rjes,I want to have subaru fun times with my van but its not happening,new donner car and new system me thinks,Iv probably ruined this engine anyway from the amount it overheats.
just taken the thermostat out and left my heater matrix out as couldnt be arsed to re pipe it after putting the short link in and just been on a short trip to the shops and the radiator is now hot and the pipe from rad back to engine is now hot,seems to all be ok,work that one out,remember iv bought five subaru thermostats so cant really be five faulty ones(saying that i am pretty unlucky with this ,) , took them out and put an inline one from a landrover discovery td5 which didnt work, now no thermostat and everythings flowing free as a daisy, the problem iv found with taking the thermostat out is the van doesnt reach temp and uses loads of fuel as most be on cold start are something all the time,i found this out when i went round scotland last winter and averaged 20 mpg, but this is no longer a problem for me as the second engine runs like a bag of sh#ite anyway and over fuels all the time,this engine averages 21 mpg,so i can afford to lose 1mpg,
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 1226 Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 2:24 pm Post subject:
There was a guy on here with a t25, he discovered the woodruff issue on his EJ engine, Ive too have had the woodruff issue with my Pajero I used to have. had a quick look for the thread but I can find it. its a highly likely culprit for your timing to out by the way with the symptoms your describing.
as for your coolant issue isnt there some special way for you to fill the coolant in a type 25 ( as per the RJES info) using yoda and the force to hold a bucket filled with coolant up high and allowing the coolant to syphon into the engine???? you most definitely sound like your experiencing an airlock up front with your radiator. For you to go to the ES system and use the frontera header tank you going to need to modify your radiator to have a small outlet at the top of the rad to allow air to escape either via a line back to your frontera header tank or just have a bleed screw just like a 300tdi landrover engine.
stick your thermostat back in. remove the top hose off your radiator and fill it from there with a hose pipe both directely into the radiator and also the removed hose. when you re attach the hose try to get every last drop of coolant into there with minimal air in there. thats the best way your going to get the air out of the radiator prior to having the engine running.
driving the vehicle around can also help to dislodge any stuck air in a system.
my system is now totally self bleeding due to the bleeding circuit I have incorporated. but this was created through trial and error hoping I wouldnt need it. my heater matrix is a right git to get the air out of without the air bleed circuit which would see me parking on a steep hill to get the engine as the highest point to allow the air to escape. remember the air will rise to the highest point in your coolant system. if the top of your radiator or matrix is the highest point in your coolant system then your going to have a likely trap for air to accumulate in. your water pump is not going to be able to create enough pressure to compress the air and allow the coolant to push past that air thus creating a blockage and preventing all coolant flowing past that point or through that component. _________________ Think......
cheers for the info and help,il keep trying, just got back from going to bamburgh beach for new year in the van,had an epic fail and break down again,its only 40 miles from were i leave,i got 30 odd miles up the A1 then needed to stop as it lost two litres of water through a hole i drilled in a pipe a while back to see if it had water in it and the seal gave way,then put two litres back in and off i went,then got to the beach and had to stop as the pipe from the manifold was gushing out water,stuck my head in the engine bag and could here a familiar sound that i sometimes hear at work,(i am an electrician) yep a cable was sparking on my gearbox trying to set fire to the underneath of my van,it was probably all the water pis#ing out the manifold that kept it from going up in flames,so disconnected all my batteries and left it ,so had no power are lights in the van,cooked my bacon in the dark,In the morning found a black large cable about 16mil with a spade connector at the end was the guilty one,its an original cable from the van,taped that up,fixed the broken manifold pipe added more water and off home in a huff i went,got home and the pipe from the radiator back to the engine,the rubber pipe that joins old van pipe to bottom of the engine,was rock hard, that cant be a good thing. I have a broken landrover discovery 300tdi in my yard,can i steel bits off that,can i pinch the hole system out the landy,put the radiator in aswell,im up for trying anything to get it going,its like a top gear challenge when they have a back up car ready,i keep looking out the window to my vw t4 smiling at me,Iv tryed all the parking on a mountain to fill the van and the rjes way with yoda, nothing works,is there a picture of your system are the system you use so i can maybe get some ideas,cheers again for the help
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 1226 Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 1:28 am Post subject:
Sounds like your having far too much fun with this conversion. One day hopefully you'll look back at this and realise how much you've learnt from all this. It's pretty boring having a working conversion as they just work..... Usually
If you take the RJES coolant diagram. And draw a line from the top of the radiator to the top of the header tank, that's the ES coolant circuit. The additional line (mines 8mm) provides a direct route to the expansion tank and prevents any airlocks. My coolant circuit, draw a line from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank, the heater matrix is T'd into this line.
Your radiator.
You need to create an escape route for the air. I mentioned the 300tdi as the radiator used by landrover has a plastic plug which is removed to allow air to escape. I've no idea if you could use a land rover rad in a T25. My Subaru radiator already has a 8mm outlet designed to allow the air out. Works beautifully.
The best solution I can think for you would be modify your existing radiator either get a small 8mm outlet welded to it or have a threaded boss welded to it to give you a threaded outlet to open and close during coolant changes. The same really applies to the heater matrix as you can create airlocks there.
You mentioned your bottom hose went hard, id have a guess this was due to an airlock pressurising the line. Your water pump is pushing the water against air pressurising the system. _________________ Think......
there is a bolt in the top of the t25 radiator that you take out to help the air to escape, theres a plastic side part of the radiator i could drill into and put a fitting in for a pipe,,are try and find a bold with a hole through the middle which could fit in the original bold hole at the top of radiator and pipe it back to header tank like you said,and i think a trip to the doctors to check the vans timming and woodruff key, Il keep trying,god loves a trier
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 1226 Location: Village life.... Enter the Vale
Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:21 am Post subject:
I didn't realise that the T25 radiator had a bleed screw in place already. Does coolant ever pump out from there with the engine running? _________________ Think......
Joined: 01 Mar 2009 Posts: 49 Location: South Devon
Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:38 pm Post subject:
Ive been using the RJES system for over 5 years in my T25. The only time it played up a bit is when my rear heater matrix sprung a leak. Its a tried and tested system. Worked on my EJ22 and works a treat on my EZ30. I don't want to upset you even more, but you have got the feed and return pipes the right way haven't you? _________________ 1989 VW Magnum Multivan EZ30
Joined: 07 Aug 2009 Posts: 208 Location: Sydney, Australia
Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:02 am Post subject:
Hi
The stock motor in a T25 has problems with air locks. This is because the header tank is below the radiator, I've see T25s with the front jacked way up in the air to clear air locks.
When I ran a 2.1 WBX in my old 1302 I had no bleeding issues as my header tank was higher than the radiator top tank, same with my 1303 with a STI motor.
Steve _________________ STI powered 1303 now running
G50 box, Boxster/944 brakes, Adaptronic 1280E ecu, PWR intercooler etc
iv changed the feed and return pipe over a few times to see if it was the wrong way but makes no difference either, which pipe do you have plumbed into the radiator under the bleed valve,,water does come out the bleed valve in the radiator if the bolts out,im sure the rjes system does work are it wouldnt be on the website but it hasnt worked for my two engines,Iv went to the plumb centre and bought an auto air valve and got the cap from the t25 header tank i wedged two tooth pipes in the little valve thing in the inside of the cap to allow air to flow back and forth,stuck a 8 mill pipe on than and feed it up the air vents that run up the side of the van and out the black grills on the side and put a 10 mill pipe to 15,mill then attached the auto air valve,then tie wraped it to the roof rack, creating a high spot for air to travel to,took it for a spin and the pipes are not getting rock hard,my thinking is,if the water and air are not pressured they may move around more free and after iv drivin for a good few miles it might clean the air out, as anyone good any thoughts on this as to if it would work or not work.im away to the scottish boarders fishing in the van tomorrow so will give it a go then,it will probably end in many many breakdowns as usual
fishing trip went well,van worked ok,van never got hot at all,pressure was fine, I know its not a good idea doing what iv done but desperate times force my rash ideas,it will do untill i get a new doner car and start again, I did have a different problem with the van just to keep the tradition of things not working, the heater fan in the dash burnt out and kept burning,filled the van with dirty plastic smoke,had to pull over to check for fires,so now no fans,
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