3 rolls of mig wire later!!!

Superleggo · Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:50 pm Post subject:

Obonobo

Thanks for your comments.

I have now got to decide what to do with the excess wire from the Mondeo loom. I am getting to the stage where I have neetly shortened all the wires where they area either new or grafted into the VW loom but it leaves me with about 35 wires which are about 500mm too long and look a bit of a mess. I am not too happy about cutting them all and adding a join which will be a potential for a breakdown so my current thinking is to
coil them up and hide them. May be a bit of a bodge but don't think I can buy the Ford 42 pin plug without the loom.

Superleggo · Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:00 pm Post subject: steering lock

Well I have spent the last few weeks tidying up the wiring. Progress has been slow as I bought another project. Always a sensible thing to do when you have not finished the last ones. Well that is a shortened version of what my other half said but she is very understanding!

I have been pondering on what to do about the ignition keys. Keep the original and steering lock or change over to the Mondeo system - more fabrication.

However having 2 sets of keys is impractical so having finished my Christmas shopping decided to use the time more constructively.

I decided to dump the original system and go with the Mondeo one.

With a bit of luck I cut the hole in the right place!

I needed to create a collar to mount the indicator stalk and discovered an old brake piston from my Scimitar GTE lying about the garage. with a quick skim on the lathe to remove 0.5mm it fitted like a glove! I bored a hole in the bottom and started to graft it in position.

Almost like a plan coming together!

Welded a plate on the top and it is ready for some paint in the morning.

As I finished I suddernley thought that I wonder if a steel box will effect the signal from the key to the PATS ariel.

Anybody know?

I suppose the best answer is to test it. If it is a problem then I will chop the top off the housing and make a GRP version now I have a former.

Superleggo · Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:04 pm Post subject:

For interest My camper is in Practical Performance car Mag this month.

You may have seen the last 2 months on wiring Zetec engines

Obonobo · Posted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 9:15 am Post subject:

Nice fabrication!

Could you scan the article for us (or maybe just me) and post it? Curious to know what it says!

Keep it up!
_________________
Greetings from Sietze
-------
Driving a '75 Bay with a EJ22 '93 and 091 6-rib box.

And it's a long time since it looked anything like this!

richbaker78 · Teacher of Padawans Joined: 31 Jan 2006 Posts: 1298

Nice work, I was reading the article this morning in ppc thinking I'm sure I recognise this bus!! Well done. Good write up of wiring conversions in previous issues too.

Superleggo · Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:01 pm Post subject:

Glad you enjoyed the write up. They should feature your van when it is finished as it is far more interesting than mine.

However I have had to modify my work on the steering column as the PATS ariel did not see the key when surrounded by metal. Obvious really. So I took the grinder to it

I then filled it back in with a bit of GRP. The Key seems happy again. It is quite fussy as I did not cut so much away first time round and it saw the key one way round but it I put it in upside down then it failed to recognize it. It is too much of a hassle to remember which way round to put the key in so I had to modify it.

I completed the wiring and am please to say it runs from the key!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ie0Z2M_6sQ4

It runs better with the air filter and air flow meter connected!

Superleggo · Posted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 10:23 pm Post subject:

I have started to connect the rest of the Mondeo loom into the camper one. As the Vw was air cooled it lacked a temperature gauge. I was not sure where to fit one without it looking out of place so cut a hole in the spare pod in the instrument panel and fitted it there.

It seems ok. A few more wires to connect up before putting the pod back in.

I could not get the ignition light to go off when the engine runs which lead me to think that my alternator was goosed. Great pity as it is a 200amp item from a S80 Volvo. After much head scratching I realised that the alternator clutch does not cut in as the S80 alternator runs anticlockwise and in its current position it is running clockwise!

I am thinking of refitting the Mondeo one but it involves much messing about as both the power steering pump and air con units are missing. The Mondeo unit is only 70 amps which could be a bit lame with dual betteries to charge.

Has anyone got any thoughts of a good, cheap alternative high power alternator that runs clockwise or with a fixed pulley -120amp+ that does not need the original car ECU to control it?

My current thinking is A4 unit but I have not found much info on the control/wiring.

Any thought or good solutions to save me hours wandering round the wet scrap yards of Cornwall

trev · Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:12 am Post subject:

is there any way you can run the alternator off the "back" of the belt? Like re-route the belt to run that alternator the way it wants to?

Superleggo · Posted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:14 pm Post subject:

Trev

I know where you are coming from and did think about it but would need to change the pulley and create at least two others to run it backwards. I did not think it was worth the effort. I also thought about refitting the Mondeo alternator but that is quite a lot of work now the power steering pump and air con compressor are missing. Refitting another that runs the right way seems like less work

I have decided to leave the alternator as it is until I find a better solution as the engine runs as it is even if it does not charge and get on with the rest of the wiring.

I have got the main fuse box live again from the mondeo ignition keys but think I may be a few reylays short of a picnic.

I have never seen a camper fuse box before but mine looks incomplete.

What do all the spare terminals on the bottom do? Any thoughts to save me some time as I have not got a wiring diagram

Are all these filled with relays for main beam and high beam?

How does the indicator stalk work. Is one click backwards to latch a relay for main beam and another click to unlatch the relay as mine does not seem to hold if pushed away from you. not sure I have explained that well!

Superleggo · Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:31 am Post subject:

I think I have worked the fuse box out now have indicators, headlights and even wipers!

I will rewire the rear lights in the morning and pop down the local scrap yard looking for a new alternator.

richbaker78 · Teacher of Padawans Joined: 31 Jan 2006 Posts: 1298

Yep there are only a couple of relays on a bay. Extras / blanks are for stuff like aux heater etc if fitted (usually not)

Headlights should be pull to click on pull to click off. If it's not working like that check the earths esp the ones in the headlamp bowls as from experience it can cause some wierd faults. Also very likely the relay has filled up with water and corroded as they sit right where water leaks in from screen so worth testing or dismantling your relay to check it's not rusted together.

Superleggo · Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:01 pm Post subject:

Rick thanks for info.

The weather on Sat was not great here in Cornwall so I had a day in the garage and made some great progress on the wiring. It is much easier if you spend a session on it rather that do 5 mins here and there.

All the lights now work as do the wipers and all the dash. A friend donated a alternator to the cause and now it rotates in the right direction seems to work ok after I made up some new mounting brackets. I have not botherd photographing them as they look much the same as the last ones but I had to start from scratch again.

One of the bits of wiring which has eluded me is the reversing lights. I have got 2 gearboxes one in the camper and the other on the floor neither seem to have a fitting for the reverse light switch which is a bit of a bummer. I guess I will have to fabricate something off the linkage. Anyone got a good work round? I do not want a switch on the dash as it is too much hassle, but reversing lights are a must in the lanes of Cornwall.

One of the last bits of wiring I did was the switch which informs you you have left the pop top up. I came across this.

I am not really sure what it is but guess it is some primitive flasher unit to make the warning bulb flash?

A flashing LED seems a better solution.