EJ22 loss of power

paulvandenton · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:10 pm Post subject:

yeah........im gonna try and weld the crank and get a new woodruff key and a new pully and crank gear, worth a shot before i go new engine route.

well now i know i guess.

Kai · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 9:12 pm Post subject:

Haven't you got a spare engine knocking around to rob the bits from?

Oh and honestly araldite it before you try welding it. I was amazed at my mechanic for doing it but he said he'd done it before with no problems.
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paulvandenton · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:43 am Post subject:

yeah ill give it ago, do you think the turbo engine has the same crank gear, im not near the engine right now but nearer to the scrappy with a 2l na in.

paulvandenton · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:44 am Post subject:

also i wonder if it wore on the crank in only one direction? how do i know what the correct position the gear should be on the crank?

Kai · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 8:43 am Post subject:

From memory i would say they looked the same but wouldn't want to say they would match with out further inspection. But then knowing the continuity of parts between the different models I wouldnt be surprised if they did match.

I would expect the wear to be in on direction, so essentially you roll the woodruff key back to its upright position and it should be in the correct position on the crank. It's best that you use every method to get the crank at TDC to give you a position to aim for when you out the crank pulley back on.

I would intend to have the crank pulley for the cambelt back on before the araldite goes off.

Let the araldite set before fitting the cam belt, and without the main pulley and bolt tighten onto the crank I would be treating that crank pulley as delicate.

Your only using that woodruff key as a guide for the rest of the pulleys, the woodruff key doesn't hold/support any of the engine loads. And if it doesn't work the worst that'll happen is that the crank pulley will move and put the timing out.
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paulvandenton · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:23 pm Post subject:

ok got some liquid metal!! tomorrow is the day!!!! cheers for your help once again. appreciated.

paulvandenton · Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:04 pm Post subject:

FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! love

Kai · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject:

Well done,

How did you find doing the repair??
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paulvandenton · Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:40 pm Post subject:

Well, i cleaned up the keyway with a wirebrush and and some cellulose thinners, double checked that it had worn on one side. Put some liquid metal in the keyway then set the key in. Left it in over night and it didnt go hard! and its not meant to apparently! so dont use that stuff.

So got some arraldite, glued it in. Put the gear on, tightened it all up, job done! i will post some pics up if anyone is interested?

dan the man · Wannabe Joined: 09 Jun 2012 Posts: 7 Location: Wetherby

I'd be interested in some pics as I might need to do a similar repair soon!

ElusiveStranger · Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:41 pm Post subject:

Mine did the same.
I remember doing a post about it ages ago.

I got an oversized woodruff key, had the pulley end machined down so it fit the pulley.
On the crank, I very carefully opened out the keyway with a dremmel, making sure to keep the faces parallel

I did read on a Usenet welding forum.... get a carbon brush of the right thickness (6mm IIRC) and make it key shaped. Put this in the gashed up hole. Weld the space up, the weld won't take to the carbon. I can't confirm this works!

I made a pulley holder shortly after as the bolt's got some torque. They should have made it left hand thread, bit silly having it RHT
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paulvandenton · Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:23 pm Post subject: !