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1Y 94 Golf IDI into 73 Bay
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



Pics of the exhaust. Not sure that I wont have to make changes as its looks a bit low. Im hopefully going to be able to take a look at it tomorrow so will be able to see it in the flesh.

You can just see the engine mounts.

@72Panelvan. I was hoping to use a T7 Design Heater. If you could send me a copy of the block that would be much apreciated.
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys have been spot on so far.
Yes its far too noisey, the stock starter is nowhere near man enough for the job and yes the engine hatch is a must.

Thanks so much for all of your help.

Going for the MOT this afternoon!

Couple of follow up questions though. Top speed is 50. Theres no rev counter at the minute so i cant report on the figures (sounds like its running hard though). What should the upper rev range be on a 1Y. Using a spreadsheet which i think came from ratwell I should be getting 65mph @4k with 195\60\15 with 7:38 final drive and 0.821 4th.

Where should I take the feed and return for a heater? Difficult one without being able to see the pipework (ill sort out photos).
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well its passed its MOT!
The garage guy noticed that there is loads of clutch drag. You have to press the peddle to the floor to get it to disengage it. There is no free play in the peddle. Its a Kennedy Clutch. What can i do to sort it?
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok the clutch is dragging because the conduit has broken free under the van. That will be an easy fix.

Top speed was restricted because of the peddle stop. A couple of blows with a hammer and the peddle gets to the carpet and the van goes like a rocket.

Temperature is a worry though. Can i simply connect a gauge to the sender on the front of the block? Do I have to change the sender to match an after market gauge or is an inline sender now required.
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jp
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Location: Chippenham, Wiltshire

PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great news on MOT and it going like a rocket

With regards to the sender you shouldn't have to fit an in line one and should be able to simply connect an after market gauge to the original sender or ideally get a gauge with sender that matches. I plan on using the original gauges from the car to test the accuracy of my after market gauge.. dunno if that option is available to you.

Keep us posted
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1971 Devon Bay with 1800 Ford Turbo Diesel Engine (wip)
1983 VW Golf GTI Campaign
1979 Mini 1275 GT
2013 Scirocco TDI GT
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive connected a gauge but ive no idea if its accurate. Unfortunately i dont have the original clocks from the donor.

Ive got a thermocouple but cant get it into the top hose without a massive hot water leak (its a proper metal probe I have a flexible wire probe but the vendor advised that its not suitable for liquid)
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:09 pm    Post subject: Nightmare. Unprovoked Fan attack on Radiator Reply with quote



Fellows Rad fir for the scrap now. Turns out that the fan kit they sell doesnt space it far enough from the rad. Ive been told that this is the early core design and it is no longer available. <200 miles for £470's worth of rad and fans. Bargin.

On the plus side there is a Coventry firm ive found who will make what they call a 'proper' rad from copper and brass which will be at least 20% more efficient than the aluminium one for significantly less than i paid fellows.

Expensive lesson learned.
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject: Too Noisy Reply with quote

Ive driven the 1Y conversion for 4 months or so now and ironed out a few of the bugs. Need taller tires thats for sure. Main problem is that its too noisy. Ive got the full length golf exhaust and original airbox, installed second skin over the hatch and bulkhead and topped it off with the noisekiller mat.

Ive heard that 'hospital silencers' are in vogue with boat owners are they suitable for automotive use?

Is there anything I can do to damp the induction noise?
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ElusiveStranger
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Nightmare. Unprovoked Fan attack on Radiator Reply with quote

StuartC wrote:


Fellows Rad fir for the scrap now. Turns out that the fan kit they sell doesnt space it far enough from the rad. Ive been told that this is the early core design and it is no longer available. <200 miles for £470's worth of rad and fans. Bargin.

On the plus side there is a Coventry firm ive found who will make what they call a 'proper' rad from copper and brass which will be at least 20% more efficient than the aluminium one for significantly less than i paid fellows.

Expensive lesson learned.


Just seen this. Did you contact them about this? They should fix that, no questions/quibbling!

Sale of goods act states that it must be fit for purpose (suitable for its intended use).

Post a picture/link of your zorst & inlet.
What's a "Hospital Silencer"?
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The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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jp
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Nightmare. Unprovoked Fan attack on Radiator Reply with quote

ElusiveStranger wrote:
StuartC wrote:


Fellows Rad fir for the scrap now. Turns out that the fan kit they sell doesnt space it far enough from the rad. Ive been told that this is the early core design and it is no longer available. <200 miles for £470's worth of rad and fans. Bargin.

On the plus side there is a Coventry firm ive found who will make what they call a 'proper' rad from copper and brass which will be at least 20% more efficient than the aluminium one for significantly less than i paid fellows.

Expensive lesson learned.


Just seen this. Did you contact them about this? They should fix that, no questions/quibbling!

Sale of goods act states that it must be fit for purpose (suitable for its intended use).

Post a picture/link of your zorst & inlet.
What's a "Hospital Silencer"?


I missed this too and totally agree with ES, can't believe Fellows wouldn't sort this out for you, seems totally unaccepptable
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1971 Devon Bay with 1800 Ford Turbo Diesel Engine (wip)
1983 VW Golf GTI Campaign
1979 Mini 1275 GT
2013 Scirocco TDI GT
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StuartC
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah had to sort it myself.

Normally id agree with you and would have taken them to the cleaners (small claims at least). However, Fellows only supplied the rad and fans and a 3rd party fitted them as part of the engine conversion. It was the incorrect fitting of the fans which caused the damage.

Needless to say it has been a lesson learned. On the plus side ive found a radiator specialist who can make a proper, bespoke, replacement when I need it. They were non too complementary about the Fellows one.


Any ideas how I can solve the noise problem?
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72panelvan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the gearbox mounts were too stiff fora diesel, so I drilled them out in a honey comb fashion. may help with the noise
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