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VW Bay window transmissions?

 
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Sloride
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:48 am    Post subject: VW Bay window transmissions? Reply with quote

I need some help deciding on what transmission to use with my conversion.

I have a 002 3 rib in my 72 bay and I am planning to put a 1.8 in-line 4 from a VW 91 GTI. I also have a 5 rib sitting in my shed that I had given to me a few years back - supposedly shifted fine before removed.

Is it worth going with the 5 rib to lower the rpms a bit or should I keep looking for a 091 - 6 rib?

My bus is lowered on BRM's and 185/60/15 tires. I am concerned about too high of rpms.

Craig
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

6 rib defo or you will reving to high at motorway speeds. you will have plenty of torque to pull a taller box with the gti motor
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1964 rat 13 window deluxe 1Z tdi,
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Sloride
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, so it has been a while. 72 bus planning to put in a 1.8 8v inline from 91 gti.

I am at the point of ordering an adapter plate from kennedy. I also picked up a 6 rib transmission.

I know the 6 rib is slightly longer and affects the shift linkage.

If I switch the 3 rib bell housing onto the 6 rib will that solve the issue or do I keep the 6 rib bell housing and get another shift rod assembly from a later bus?

I'll need to know I assume before I order the plate from kennedy...
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justin pane
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:24 pm    Post subject: 6 rib linkage Reply with quote

I f you keep the 6 rib (091) bellhousing you will need to use a later starter motor, change the bellhousing to your 002 and you can use the existing starter motor.
the 6 rib (091) box is about 7mm longer than the 002 box, just shorten the
gear selector rod by removing the square headed screw on the collar on the selector rod (under the front of the van) slide the rod along about 7mm (so that its shorter) redrill point for square headed screw. changing the bellhousing does not alter the length of the box
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Sloride
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Justin.

I orderd the adapter plate from Kennedy. They told me they don't make 210mm flywheels so I had to go with a 200mm. I will still need a new clutch and pressure plate. Suck that I only just installed the one that is in there along with resurfacing the flywheel last summer. Oh well.

I will use the 002 bellhousing so that I can at least keep the new starter. I also heard that you can switch the nose cone and that supposedly corrects the length so I won't need to play around with the shift rod. Is that so?

Either way it doesn't sound all that complicated to shorten it as you suggested.

Craig
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justin pane
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:14 pm    Post subject: 6 rib gearbox Reply with quote

The nose cone will make no difference too the overall length, its the gear carrier casting (next to the nose cone) that is longer, adjusting the length of the rod is no prob but try it without shortening the rod first, on some vans it works ok without any adjustment, for some reason! jp
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Sloride
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. So I was misinformed. I thought that the nose cone would actually shorten it.

When you say shorten the rod that is in there does it need to be cut or simply move it ahead by 7mm?

Secondly, would a shift rod from a later model work in there without modifying?

I am thinking that if for some reason I want to go back to stock and air-cooled this conversion needs to be reversable.

Craig
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justin pane
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:47 am    Post subject: 6 rib gearbox Reply with quote

the shift rod (under van) at the front slides inside a collar, remove the square
headed screw in collar adjust length of rod and replace the screw, to revert back just adjust back to original length
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