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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:03 am Post subject: |
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At a later date I can toss things against a background on my car (or one like it) To show relative height relationships to everything.
But for now heres a quick tossed together layout not unlike the one above.
There may not be enough room in the center tunnel for everything to fit, as well as the shifter, but its worth a try I think.
 _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX
Last edited by ydeardorff on Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ping Jedi Master

Joined: 11 Aug 2008 Posts: 254 Location: Warwickshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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| I like the look of this layout but I would use the mk3 golf expansion tank instead of the in line filler, I would then T off the heater line for the small pipe back to the expansion tank. Just an idea. |
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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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bumped as promised for updated picture _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX |
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ElusiveStranger Darth Admin


Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Header tank won't be effective, trust me on this. That's how i set mine up in the first place...
Single riser to the header doesn't work if the rad's lower than the block
Check out my old threads "my conversion so far/Part..." also check out Gerrelt's threads - in his bug.
He's posted great write ups. Total fail to start with but sussed it and has shared the experience, so you don't have to.
Re-read what I have written and think about the way the vapour will behave.
Think about the water flow when the 'stats shut. The water won't flow to the left on your diagram, it's got no-where to go - dead end.
As soon as you start it up the water's running to the matrix.
(nice picture BTW, thanks) _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young" |
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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, Iunderstand that, it makes sense.
I think in my system though, Im going to have to figure out dual header tanks or somthing. Once the coolant leaves the engine bay, it has to dip down, and then rise back up to the heater matrix, and rad.
Im hoping I wont run into issues with two tanks, or two fill points.
Running double or triple lines doesnt seem like it would help in this particular case.
Do you think having two header tanks would solve that problem? Or cause more problems. (See picture updated below).
 _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX |
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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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Bumped for update _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX |
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ElusiveStranger Darth Admin


Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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I've had a think:
That would mean a custom tank using Subaru dimension inlets/outlets (32mm IIRC)
I've put the "Bypass Valve" as a "?" If you're unsure of what one is, do a search on here.
Have a look at Gerrelt's threads and Hansons as they've put working cooling systems in bugs so not too dissimilar to your intended setup _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young" |
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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you for your time.
I looked at gerralt's threads and his website last night. Nice bug, and a TV shoot to boot! I could be so lucky.
I had thought of some sort of autobleeder that would automatically purge only air, and not coolant. I havent found anything other than manual bleeders. Im hoping for a maintenance free solution to it.
The block that says stat. Thats a thermostat? Whats the purpose of the bypass, in case of a blockage in the heater matrix?
Any ideas? _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX |
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ElusiveStranger Darth Admin


Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:31 pm Post subject: |
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Yup - 'Stat = thermostat, lazy typing/speech
Right, the bypass (you didn't search)...dump too much heat through the matrix and the return's too cold for the stat to open. Therefore engine overheats (dunno what your climate's like)
Now in buses they take a long time to get warm in the cabin unlike a Scooby. The bypass allows you to return some of the hot water straight back to the stat, ok it takes the cabin longer to get hot but your engine's happy.
Scoobies must always have water flowing through the matrix, even in the summer. Some matrixes can be shut down (T3s for example). This will feck your engine, now with a bypass set to open all the matrix water flows happily straight back to the 'stat.
If you don't run a matrix you put a loop in it's place _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young" |
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ydeardorff Initiate Jedi

Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 32
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:57 am Post subject: |
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yes, after several searches I got a link to the vanagon site. He has some sort of modified water pump on it. But isnt designed for the WRX motor I have.
Im wondering though if I by an aftermarket heater/ac system if it will feck my heater by having hot water running to it all the time. Or nicely provide me heat in the summer as well, ac running or not.
Ill have to tinker with this to see what I can do.
Alot of research to do. _________________ Sterling Kit car (VW based) Project
Current donor car and engine:
2005 WRX Turbo
Looking for 200 to 250HP lump, Found it = WRX |
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AMBROSIA Initiate Jedi

Joined: 10 Jul 2007 Posts: 31 Location: Wickford, Essex
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:35 am Post subject: |
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My two pence worth.
I run a wbx engine in a bug and use a burp tank in the highest position over the engine.
The rad is in the front and I have an expansion bottle plumbed into the top pipe feed and the rad air bleed pipe.
Any excess air is bled off front and rear leaving no air pockets anywhere.
Refilling the system is simple, remove the expansion tops and keep filling the front tank until the desired level is reached. Simples.
It has always worked perfectly in the last three years. _________________ http://www.volkszone.co.uk/VZi/showthread.php?t=353775 |
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southcoastcruiser Padawan

Joined: 04 Jun 2011 Posts: 71 Location: South of France
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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hI
i profite this topic to ask you something
here is the schema of my cooling
the header tank is a T25 I have no heater ( south of france !)
what can you think about it
the header is on the the top of the engine area
the water pump is lower than rads
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