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1975 bay scooby con please advise
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sven
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Joined: 27 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem with having the rad in the rear is that 99 % of all people putting it there does it in a wrong way. There are several car models that did have rear mounted rad's and lets not talk about buses.
The way Punky has done it will work correct if the air flow to the rad is enough and if the rad is tightly sealed to the air channel. The smallest space between the radiator and the chassi and the cooling will not work.

I have a friend who did the same thing in a T3. Works really well.

Punky, your conversion looks good!
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richbaker78
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good effort Punky and fair play for the exhaust - looks great.

Just to add to the cooling debate....(i hope youll prove us wrong) but
ive known a few people who have also tried this set up and had similar results to Alex almost regardless of what they did - one even ended up grafting and extra vent in the back next to the battery tray, widening the intakes and shrouding etc etc - it would work but it could never be made efficient and always depended on the fans wchih could be overcome in the the heat/ up hills etc. In his case we concluded that the vents were intakes and not scoops and that difference meant there was not enough airflow. Like i say i hope you make this work efficiently and prove us all wrong.
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sven
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guy I know who did a working setup didn't rely on the side vents (because they aren't enough). He ducts air from beneath, like the under-floor setup most people use, but he flows the air into the air channel behind the wheel.
That's the same I'm doing. I'm just going to finish it up. Will happen any day... Wink

EDIT: a cross post to the radiator archive: http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?p=18370#18370
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Punky
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well life has been full of highs and lows haven t up dated for ages camper got stuck on the back shelf due to my little boy Finn being born. However if i can remember how to put some photos back on this site you'll see shes done works ish!!!!! and i can t wait to finish the inside
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Punky
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am very happy with the colour but not so with the wheels ill have safe up some money Grin
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Punky
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They other side
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Punky
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


My very understanding wife and baby boy


This took bloody ages to sort out and after all that f@*king about it dont blow enough air into the cab.

These cost shed load of money and a right pain in the arse to fit but quiet happy with the dash. Shame i now have to re think the angle as the lights reflect in the windscreen at night
She now has a mot and is running, i am testing the cooling system out at the moment doing little runs into town and all seems to be fine the fan kicks in at 90c for 2 mins and cuts out again BUT the temp gauge on the dash shouts a massive 250f. However every time it does i stop check the engine open the header tank and the water is cool enough to touch so something is wrong?
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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Location: Mudway, Kent

PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2010 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on the sprog mate.

Is your gauge/sender accurate?
How hot is your water manifold? (Not header) 250F's 121C (why you mixing temp scales?)

Fan should kick in at around 95. 90's low as the 'stat is only fully open at 87C
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The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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Punky
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well the sender controlling the fan is working at 90c/ 194f fine no issues however the temp gauge is an america dial and only works in fahrenheit which comes off the engine block i am hoping the sender or the gauge is broken off the engine block i need to check it out
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Punky
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

its a bit of scary driving around and watching the temp gauge on the dash rise above 250f /121c which should be about right to blow up. however i stop check the temp of the water and its cold enough to touch in the header tank the manifold is warm to the touch and the engine bay is pumping out alot of heat. we had a external tester and checked the manifold temp every time it got hot and it only read 90c so it must be the sender gauge in the engine block ???
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13 window deluxe
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had something similar on my split but the other way round reading 80degree's on the gauge and the engine got so hot and pressured up the end blew of the radiator Eeeek assuming you have the correct sender to match the gauge it sound's like you might have air in the system and its getting super heated to steam around the temp sender
_________________
1964 rat 13 window deluxe 1Z tdi,
1975 rhd twin slider tintop (TBA)
1991 golf 2 gti with tweaked AHU tdi,

previous tdi swaps: gone but not forgotten
1979 rhd twin slider tintop bay ahu 1.9tdi
1990 T25 1Z 1.9tdi
1993 suzuki samurai with 1Z 1.9tdi
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13 window deluxe
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ps the bus look ace dude
_________________
1964 rat 13 window deluxe 1Z tdi,
1975 rhd twin slider tintop (TBA)
1991 golf 2 gti with tweaked AHU tdi,

previous tdi swaps: gone but not forgotten
1979 rhd twin slider tintop bay ahu 1.9tdi
1990 T25 1Z 1.9tdi
1993 suzuki samurai with 1Z 1.9tdi
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