Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 11:29 pm Post subject:
Yay.
It ran like poop cos you didn't have the MAF on the inlet _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Joined: 28 Mar 2009 Posts: 258 Location: NSW Australia
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:39 am Post subject:
Congrats, you've just reached the first most rewarding stage of the conversion, next one comes with the first test drive
Im surprised it fired up so happy without the AFM or ICV connected up
Checked to see yet if the ECU has logged any errors?
My first engine threw the cam pos sensor fault and second engine threw knock sensor fault.
So nice having an engine that tells you whats wrong with it _________________ 1974 1303 Germanlook Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Well im sure thats partly why it runs like crap, lacking the MAF, but theres a ton of vacuum leaks (unplugged stuff) i have to track down. Making the air intake will be a pain, i'm trying to envision where the stock air box+filter should go, probably dead center above the engine near the firewall, just a couple elbows and it should be good.
Oh i'm sure theres a tonne of faults. I've got to get ahold of a code reader to read and clear some codes. I got the o2 sensors hooked up, and figured out the PCV is also a vacuum leak. Lots of stuff to plug up.
I've got a question though, i know these questions suck, but theres a few 'extra' pipes coming off the intake manifold area that i dont know what they go to. I've got two small ones on the right, and one small one below the fuel pipes on the left. Any idea what they're for? I'll take some pictures when i get home.
I cut out the grill in the hood yesterday, and started some work on the alternator. What i plan on doing is clearancing the bracket itself, cutting it in half horizontally, and actually extending it up so the alternator will be about 4 inches higher than it was before so it clears the IAC valve. I dont know how the deck lid will fit on there with it where it is, but i'll likely just modify the deck lid to have a 'power bulge' in it around the alternator.
Joined: 28 Mar 2009 Posts: 258 Location: NSW Australia
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 2:11 am Post subject:
The extra pipes are just the Charcoal canister hardlines
as long as the port on the throttle body is blocked off they fine to leave, I actually removed all mine just to neaten things up abit
Also just leave the electrical plug connected to the purge solenoid for it, even though theres no hoses there otherwise the computer will have a tissy.
Even though yours is OBDII you should still be able to just connect the diagnosis plugs toghether and read codes from the check engine light _________________ 1974 1303 Germanlook Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ254, BoostR 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Hmmm, i'll have to consult my diagrams and try to find that (those) wire (s). Does "test mode" mean anything? It's the only wire i can remember that i left unconnected yet labeled. Hmmm.
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:53 am Post subject:
On the earlier engines (you could have them too) there's a pair of Black, single pin connectors & a pair of Green single pin connectors.
These are the "Test Mode" and "Error Code" connections. Over here (UK) they are normally situated near the stearing column (RHS of cabin) _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Heh, well, thing about that is when i took my wiring out i just cut the main harness back from the three big plugs, and cut the giant bundle of wires going to the ECU, so i dont have any connectors left, just a few spare wires
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 2:06 am Post subject:
Some days I don't know if I should take you seriously, but tonight I've just p1ssed myself with that comment
Absolutely fantastic!!! Looms are a right PITA, been talking to Rich (as in RJES) today about Leeroy's loom - fecking nightmare of a job! _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Some days I don't know if I should take you seriously, but tonight I've just p1ssed myself with that comment
Absolutely fantastic!!! Looms are a right PITA, been talking to Rich (as in RJES) today about Leeroy's loom - fecking nightmare of a job!
Well. Honestly, if i had to do it again, i'd probably do it the same way. Honestly its probably easier just slicing everything up. The only thing you have to worry about is the power supply and ground to things, the rest of it just goes right to the computer harness. I think the only things that /dont/ come from the main engine plugs are the MAF, o2 sensors, aaaaaaand, i think thats it.
Anywho, picture bomb!
Boom!
Did some hack-n-slash on the alternator bracket:
Something like this:
As an aside; Has anyone ever just been super lucky and gotten it confused with actually being proficient at anything? I lucked the hell out so many times on this project i've lost count, and i'm starting to think i might be getting better at fabrication. The alternator bracket has this neat 90* edge to it right at the front, it just so happens this 90* continues all the way up the bracket, so all i did was just cut the bracket and splice in some angle iron. Crude? Yes. Functional? I dunno, maybe.
I know its goofy looking, but i honestly spent an entire work period just setting the alternator everywhere it could possibly go and this is the only way this will work with the IAC i have, reversed intake, and not-reversed coolant manifold.
Lines up great:
I'm using the power steering tensioner (or is it the ac tensioner) to tension the belt for the alternator. Thats the only part it looks like that will need some finagling. When i ground the mount back so the pulley lines up i didnt grind it flat, so its all rounded and off plane, nothing some flat washers can't fix
Started on some throttle cable stuff. I've got some poly tube, and some steel tube. The idea i had was to slide the poly tube inside the steel tube as a sort of anti-chafe liner (noone likes chafing) but when i held stuff up on there i had the thought of just using the poly tube as an extended cable liner instead of using the steel tube. Only thing i can think of that wont work is the poly tube is kinda soft, i dont know if the cable will cut through it like fine plastic cheese. I also hack-n-slashed the throttle cable bracket to bring it higher to get a better angle on the throttle cam, as well as drilled another hole in the cam to get an angle with the throttle cable.
(something i measured today doesnt jive with what i've read about the whole suby-throttle thing. i read somewhere the VW pedal doesnt have a long enough arc of travel to open the subaru throttle all the way. When i measured it, the pedal is about a half inch longer travel than the subaru cam, that isnt right, is it?)
The problem i am going to have is this: The throttle cable isnt long enough. I had the stupid idea today that i could just fray two cables, interleave the wires, and acid solder the pieces together to make a longer cable. Is that a really stupid idea or has anyone done that?
Oh, also. Not a *single* cloud in the sky today
(both weeds AND trees are green over here :O!)
A couple small victories today. I finagled a throttle for it, it turns out it wasnt too hard. What i did was get some 1/16th inch wire rope (just galvanized multi strand twisty stuff, 95 pound test) and some swedge thingies. Then i just ran the rope through the throttle tube in the car, put one of those universal throttle barrels on the throttle then discovered it didnt travel far enough.
Hmm, what to do? So, after some poking around i decided i would chop the stops off the throttle arm in the car so it can come back about half an inch further, and go forwards about an inch further. Then i discovered the little swoopy ramp on the back of the gas pedal wasnt jiving with the new travel, so i took el-dremel and cut a new shape further down in the metal that allows the little roller to ride all the way down. Tightened things up, gave it a mash and now it opens fully and closes fully with no funkyness. In fact, it's a little loose at the engine and it still opens it fully. Only complaint is a weird notch in the pedal travel kinda like secondaries on an old four barrel carb. I think i might keep that
So then i started hacking on the intake duct. I wanted to use the stock suby air box for a couple reasons. Reason one, its OEM. If i've learned anything from playing with aftermarket vw parts its OEM is almost always better quality, fit, and durability than anything aftermarket suppliers can cobbly. Reason two, its got a paper element filter, and that's leaps and bounds better than oiled gauze (hot wire MAF, bad idea with oiled gauze that close to the element in my opinion) or those cheezy wire-foam dealies. This might not be a concern for you guys, but around here theres almost nothing but dirt roads and they get duuuuuusty, so the more filtering the better. Reason three for staying with the stock box is i'm a cheap barsteward, there i said it.
So anyway, hacking and thrashing on the airbox, duct, and where it should go made me decide that it'll go right on top of the motor, with the actual filter intake pointing up and towards the firewall. This gives the output of the MAF and the intake on the throttle body about 4 inches apart, and facing the same way, necessitating a U bend of some sort. After doing some brief online searches i again decided to keep my kidneys where they are, and out of a pawn shop, and utilize my somewhat local hose supplier. Theres a warehouse that has just hose, only hose, every kind of hose you can possibly think of. I'll upload pictures tomorrow, but i got some wire corrugated 3 inch hose that's just perfect for fitting over the MAF outlet and over the throttle body. I then cut out the fitting for the IAC hose out of the intake tube, drilled a suitable sized hole in the filter housing, and jb-welded the fitting in there (pushed it through the hole an eighth inch then fillet-ed around it with epoxy).
Anywho, that's as far as i got today. Progress, but slow. Tomorrow i'll finish up with the air box (get some hose, plug that stupid pcv valve) put the exhaust gaskets in it, tighten all the clamps, make sure nothing will chafe, and i miiiight go for a drive.
Oh, also, i got a code reader (60 bucks, pfft, hardly 5 bucks in parts there) and hooked it up. Turned on the key and BAM, communicates fine with the computer, i'm very happy about that. Returned a couple of codes (meaningless with everything unhooked and nothing gone through and deleted). One code, p0325, i looked up says MAF sensor circuit failure. Accurate, as its unplugged :P The only other code it pulled is a p0100 which i'm pretty sure is a generalized misfire if i learned anything in school. Again, pretty accurate i'm sure the sensors are going nuts with no air sensor, more vacuum leaks than colander-space-helmet, and questionable fuel pressure (i'm imagining things are gonna take a little working and fuel movin for things to soften up and seal better fuel pump and regulator wise).
I've got a question though. I've been debating today whether i should bother building a wall sealing off the radiator from the passenger/trunk area or not. It's closing in on winter around here and they get mighty cold, should i just forstall building the little sealing wall and enjoy that extra heat leakage into the car or should i just go ahead and build the wall, and risk freezing to death o_O
One more question. I'll be building a heating system for the car as well. I plan on using the rear heater box out of a vanagon (i've got it all ready, plenum and all). Right now all it has is a crude two directional louver plenum on it and what i'd like to do is build a little air handling box that i can choose whether i want defrost, vent (i plan on putting little louver plates in the knee area of the trunk that you can twist around and point, works great for the gas heater), or floor heat (I'm going to seal off the heater ducts forward of the passenger seat, then flop the floor vents left and right so the deflector flaps scoop the air out and dumps it at your feet). The problem i'm having is finding anyone who's done this, and finding where to buy the kind of valves i want. I just need light duty flaps with some arms or something for cables sticking off them. Hmm. Also, is the rear heater from a vanagon a good flowing heater? I'm worried it'll be too anemic for winter up here (high of 15-20f isnt unusual in the mountains).
Edit: Brain fart!
Just had an idea, why dont i just use the old air handling stuff from the car already? I could use the fresh air inlets (i'm ditching the old fresh air box, waste of time anyway with the climate here) so maybe i can hack those flappers off there, then hack the flapper boxes off the old heat exchangers and graft them into a plenum of sorts. Hmm...
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 11:05 pm Post subject:
With the heater, why not rear mount it under the seat. Make up a new front (With your swivel flaps) for it that could accept the foil tubes - run these under the front seats when required? Hopefully that will help prevent the heater channels (sills/rockers) rotting out.
Quoting you here "One code, p0325, i looked up says MAF sensor circuit failure. Accurate, as its unplugged :P The only other code it pulled is a p0100 which i'm pretty sure is a generalized misfire if i learned anything in school."
I have P0325 as Knock sensor. P0100 as MAF circuit malfunction
I'd like to go for a stock airbox/filter to stop the "bark". Ultimately I'd like whisper quiet _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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