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Bugaru project
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minor updates...

New Avon ZZ3 tyres introduced in 205-45-17 for the front and 205-50-17 for the rear gives you a much better feeling & handling than the old ones







Also i fabricate a new center console and moved the radio cd on it until i will be ready to trim the dashboard & console





In future plans these instruments will light up my interior and who knows what else.......





Now lets get back to business....

During the past days i have encounter an oil pressure problem and after the fact i've changed the oil pressure sender with new one the problem still persists.

New semisynthetic oil 15w50 and nipon oil filter introduced but the only change is to see higher pressure at cold 6.7bar and at hot idle around 0.9bar.

I have noticed some oil leak from this solenoid (i dont know how this called) and I strapped it.



Through my plans it was to cut my intake "Injen style" manifold and add the air filter as closer as i can to maf sensor.I dont know if this has a better efficiency but i like the result!

[/img]

After the cut and after reset the ECU some times the idle plays from 400rpm to 700rpm and i was wondering if the time has come to clean the idle control valve & MAF but i cant locate the valve!

Also does anyone reverse the oil tube succesfully?

Any info would be appreciated guys!

Rgrds,
Jimmy
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anybody guys??
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Inane Cathode
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 225

PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's on the other end of the large hose coming off the intake, i would venture a guess its more the MAF than the IAC valve, really.
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 2527
Location: Mudway, Kent

PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"I have noticed some oil leak from this solenoid (i dont know how this called) and I strapped it. "

Hiya Jimmy, that looks like it's the crankcase & headcover breather into the Inlet manifold. That steel part (if I remember right) is a 1 way valve.
It's not a solenoid.

You could blank it off at the manifold end and run a filter at the crank end.

I think I've read it somewhere, but I'm not sure.....unscrew the oil filler pipe and rotate it 180°
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips Elusive & Inane!

It seems that the idle has been stabilized after 3 road trips and this without cleaning MAF or IACV ,so i will not touch them at the moment

I will try to see if i can get more details to rotate the oil filler.
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surfbeetle
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Joined: 17 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my EJ20, I removed the oil filler and rotated it 180 degrees with no problems. I don't have the motor running yet, but I was not able to fit the motor into the back of my 67 bug if the filler was in the orginal location. It's just two bolts holding it in place.
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merry Christmas to all!!

In the last few days some minor problems came up.

1.When the engine warm up and during the ride i have instantly three or four stall, it's like that someone to cut the power or the petrol.

This only happens(dont' know if this is by accident) in winter time and i've noticed when the humidity is up.
So first came in my mind to check the fuel pump and i have in idle 2.5 bar and in full rpms 3.5bar with regular flow.

Next i thought the MAF sensor because i dont have a knock sensor.

So i buy a CRC MAF cleaner and with carefull i sprayed the MAF and let it to vaporized (like photo).Then i bolt it back and i think i have gain some power.
Till today i have done 3 rides with no hesitation at all.



Next step( if it aint MAF) is to change the spark plugs or the coil.

Do you suggest anything else that might be checked???

2. I tapped one oil evaporasation leak and change also a handbrake cable because it brokes.

3. I re-assembly the MAF and intake air filter.



4.Change one brake hose line cause it was worn out!!!
New oil 10W-40 castrol magnatec + oil & fuel filter introduced.

5.From next week i will finally make some progress in interior(new dashboard & central console)

more photos from the progress next week.
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P4UL
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Joined: 13 Sep 2010
Posts: 83
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks really nice & neat Jimmy, well done.

I have been thinking of a center console & like the look of yours, it really makes the dash a tidier place, and somewhere to put all the extras.
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks P4ul! I can't wait to see console + dash finished.

Happy holidays!
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ElusiveStranger
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Joined: 23 May 2006
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Location: Mudway, Kent

PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its it a bit difficult to start on the days when it stalls? I'm wondering if you've got the cold start wire from the starter to the ecu, or maybe it has a bad connection.
_________________
The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.

'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more Grin
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Elusive,

I had never problem in cold start(if you mean at the first startup).
The problem begins after approx. 15 minutes of driving with temperature arround 78c. and nomatter what rpms i have, the engine stalls a few times and after that dissapeared.

The problem is that i can't find the source of the problem and i was wondering if it's aint a electrical problem if it's a mechanical Eeeek

what do you think?
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Bugaru
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Joined: 22 Jan 2010
Posts: 26

PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

update..

After raised this thread on aussies http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=87474 i have realized that the dimming lights were the source of the problem.
The driving distance is every day the same, home-work-home so back to home in the afternoon i need to open the lights and that cause the stall.
The fuse is overloaded with power and is gets really hot with result of losing power somewhere and instantly cut me off.
So the simplest test was to open the lights during the day and see if the problem comes up.
And guess..... Yes it stalls once more so it has something to do with the dim lights. I'm thinking to bypass the big scale and send it directly to battery or to add a relay.Laugh Out LoudLaugh Out Loud

Regards,
Jim Laugh Out Loud
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