Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:53 pm Post subject: Radiator cap query
The radiator i'm installing under my bus has its own rad cap, but i am using a coolant bottle (expansion tank) , so what do i do with the pressure cap? is it possible to blank it off?, or do i just leave a standard radiator cap on?
ta,
James _________________ HMMM, dont know yet, but i'll have a go!!!!
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:55 pm Post subject:
What MM said. You really want to seal the under rad one. I believe you can buy non sprung ones specifically for this purpose _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
So, in theory if i blank off the oveflow pipe on the radiator collar it should, providing that the radiator top cap seal is good, have the same effect of blanking off the radiator pressure valve too? . Scoop and radiator mounting bracket now fabricated and road hump tested, so getting close to pulling the aircooled engine now _________________ HMMM, dont know yet, but i'll have a go!!!!
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 2:25 am Post subject:
currylager wrote:
So, in theory if i blank off the oveflow pipe on the radiator collar it should, providing that the radiator top cap seal is good, have the same effect of blanking off the radiator pressure valve too? . Scoop and radiator mounting bracket now fabricated and road hump tested, so getting close to pulling the aircooled engine now
Parley voux Englander? [sic]
Overflow pipe? Expansion pipe maybe? (I think you'd be ok)
What rad? Blah blah etc
Photos would be good, you know what you're talking about cos you can see it. We can't/don't. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
Ok, before i go any further, a few pics to explain things a bit etc
The bus.
The reason things are taking so long.
The EJ22 engine, cleaned with shortened sump.
Old bellhousing and RJES bellhousing
The rad and mounting frame
Mounting brackets and dampers
Cooling fan arrangement
The scoop
The pipe i'm referring too is the one that comes off the collar of the radiator cap which usually goes to a vented expansion bottle on most older cars. I do not know what the rad is off but is similar in size to an XJ40 rad but is alloy and brand new to avoid the risk of blocked cores _________________ HMMM, dont know yet, but i'll have a go!!!!
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 11:08 pm Post subject:
Personally I'd cap that cap or get it welded shut. Take the expansion pipe back to the header tank.
Are your fans blowers?
I'm going to assume they are here as your set up looks familiar
I made my scoop the entire width of the rails though and plated the underside up to the rad. Like this...
Put ally plates between all of the top hat sections and the chassis rails. I attached each of mine with 1 pop-rivet each. Box it in as best as you can at the back. You want all of that air to pass through the rad _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
The rad is mounted up between the chassis rails and then scoop actually forces air upwards and exits from the rear and between the top hat sections. The fans are pushers and are actually mounted inside the scoop because i could not get enough clearance above the rad. My bus is sensibly lowered, but ground clearance is still an issue i'm afraid.
I did actually place a post on here querying radiator orientation but had no replies , so i will have to try this setup and see if it will be effective enough, otherwise i will have to do something similar to yours
ta,
James _________________ HMMM, dont know yet, but i'll have a go!!!!
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:58 pm Post subject:
It would be good to have another design!
I think you may have to consider placing sheet under the top hat sections to make the airflow smooth to the back or to assist it out of the gaps between the top of the chassis rails and floor _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
The proof is in the pudding i guess, i felt a bit disheartened after seeing your design and realising mine is significantly different .
According to the spiel, alloy rads can be up to 40% more efficient than standard rads, plus the whole rad housing is also aluminium and buts directly onto its steel mounting frame and scoop, so hopefully this will provide some compensation for reduction in air flow .
I have now pulled the aircooled engine and have welded the neccesary return and vent pipes to the top of the tank and upgraded the fuel supply pipe to 8mm diameter .
If things go well i am hoping to put the scooby engine and 091 box in the bus next weekend.
At present i feel there are so many things which could go wrong with this project, so i'm keeping my perfectly good aircooled setup until i know things turn out ok _________________ HMMM, dont know yet, but i'll have a go!!!!
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 2527 Location: Mudway, Kent
Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:24 pm Post subject:
currylager wrote:
The proof is in the pudding i guess, i felt a bit disheartened after seeing your design and realising mine is significantly different .
Mine works, yours may well work just as well!
According to the spiel, alloy rads can be up to 40% more efficient than standard rads, plus the whole rad housing is also aluminium and buts directly onto its steel mounting frame and scoop, so hopefully this will provide some compensation for reduction in air flow .
Mine's ally too. Thermal conductivity
Less steel -> copper -> ally -> gold -> silver more
I have now pulled the aircooled engine and have welded the neccesary return and vent pipes to the top of the tank and upgraded the fuel supply pipe to 8mm diameter .
[b]Give that tank a bloody good clean!
If things go well i am hoping to put the scooby engine and 091 box in the bus next weekend.
*grins*
At present i feel there are so many things which could go wrong with this project, so i'm keeping my perfectly good aircooled setup until i know things turn out ok
Hopefully you'll have seen most of other peoples teething probs and pit falls. _________________ The advice you receive on here is worth the paper it's written on.
Your experiences are worth shed loads to others, including the f'ups - live and learn.
Wouldn't YOU rather learn by someone else's mistakes? So would they.
'78 Bay, 2 litre 091 box, EJ20 NA & the ashtray's on the 'right' side.
I don't lean forward for hills any more
Bugger, missed out on "Live fast, die young"
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, so i will have to try this setup and see if it will be effective enough, otherwise i will have to do something similar to yours 
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