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template for bay window?
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 9:33 pm    Post subject: template for bay window? Reply with quote

Hi,

this is my first post, i've decided on the subaru route and been fortunate enough to find a good 2.0 na engine. I'm an auto bay window driver, i'm changing my 003 gearbox to an 010 (parts availability forced that one).

I'm starting to think about cooling and the rads and my my first thoughts about cooling are "this has been done plenty of times before so is there a tried and tested template to follow"

I don't have fabrication facilities but hopefully i can achieve this without welding. My initial browse on the site has not shown anything up but i am new so maybe looked in the wrong places.

So do you join 2 rads together and run it back to the engine, where do people put the coolant tank?
How do you attach the rads to the chassis, is there a brace or something or does someone have one for sale?

I'm in chelmsford in essex so if anyone is nearby I'd love to check out what you've done.

many thanks
PG
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A conversion without welding doesn't seem realistic to me.

However, you say you are driving an automatic? You know you can bolt the subaru engine to the VW automatic box? Had a guy over last year who drove like that for over a year without issues so far. Think he is the only one I heard of who done it, but would save lots of work installing a clutch and gear shifter!
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1973 BayWindow running 1.9 110 bhp TDI with flipped gearbox.
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You know you can bolt the subaru engine to the VW automatic box? Had a guy over last year who drove like that for over a year without issues so far


I didn't know but its good to hear, thank you. Wouldn't happen to know the guys name would you ?

PG
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is his thread, I can let you get in touch with him if you like.

http://www.subaruforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=890

Located in NL though.
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

superb, a really nice job and a well documented thread.

If you can put me in touch that would be excellent,

PG
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Wilfred
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I asked him if that is okay. He is usually fast with replying. Will let you know ASAP
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes... whats up doc?
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trev
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:37 pm    Post subject: Re: template for bay window? Reply with quote

pgtips wrote:
Hi,

this is my first post, i've decided on the subaru route and been fortunate enough to find a good 2.0 na engine. I'm an auto bay window driver, i'm changing my 003 gearbox to an 010 (parts availability forced that one).

I'm starting to think about cooling and the rads and my my first thoughts about cooling are "this has been done plenty of times before so is there a tried and tested template to follow"

I don't have fabrication facilities but hopefully i can achieve this without welding. My initial browse on the site has not shown anything up but i am new so maybe looked in the wrong places.

So do you join 2 rads together and run it back to the engine, where do people put the coolant tank?
How do you attach the rads to the chassis, is there a brace or something or does someone have one for sale?

I'm in chelmsford in essex so if anyone is nearby I'd love to check out what you've done.

many thanks
PG


is it the fitting and plumbing of the radiators you're worried about when you mentioned the inability to weld? Check out my radiator setup: no welding required!! Very simple, one big radiator, Golf header tank is the highest point in the engine bay, uninterrupted downward slope to the radiator, straight shot back up the way too means no bleed points, no airlocks etc. Very straightforward.

http://vwkd.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=29829#29829

and the whole thread:

http://vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=3962&sid=d898aee37128cb7cf0fa4e000bdb241d
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

thanks for replying, I like the ducting idea Trev, but how did you attach the rad to the chassis.

fahtal, thats a great job there, mines an auto as well so its great to see another one done. Did you use a 010 gearbox and do you think it would be better with a larger final drive or any change to the gearing?

Would you have done anything different in the build?

thanks guys
PG
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
fahtal, thats a great job there, mines an auto as well so its great to see another one done. Did you use a 010 gearbox and do you think it would be better with a larger final drive or any change to the gearing?




i`m not sure. but i think i have an 010 gearbox. the bay window automatic started with an 003 till 1975 i think. and then went for the 010 gearbox.

I didn`t change the final gear. i saw that some vanagon riders did that. maybe in the future but i think is allot of money.

i had some problems with my subaru+vw automatic. I broke 4 torque converters. because
1 there was to little space between engine and gearbox
2 the adapter plate did not aligne the engine and gearbos. it was a bit of centre. a normal clutch wil do but an automatic wil brake
3 the "flex"plate did not allign dead centre. the alignement hole was bigger then the crankshaft notch
4 the "flex"plate wasn`t to flexible... so fibrations killed the fourth torque converter.....

now i`m driving with an original vw flexplate with an cutom made core to fit the subaru crankshaft

Pictures
some say old vw mark their spot. mine bleeds ones a month...



looks ok...


but...oops


so here goes number 3Wink


here you can see the broken"tube"of the torque converter. next to it the new"tube"


and welded in place


after this weld my vw started to bleed again. but this time the tube didn`t brake but the bronze bushing was ruined... so the welded "tube" is a great modification.

alligning


vw vs adapted

subaru:
[img]http://api.hollandersolutions.com/Assets/Y/OAKLEAFWI/Part/23407/Image/1[/img]

making the core




[/img]

Quote:
Would you have done anything different in the build?


uhm not sure. the cooling could be better but i like the compact system without allot of piping underneath my bus..

i put an extra radiator and this seems to help but i still need the fans.



on your question to put in a different final gear. look at these results

if i compare my vw 2.0 cj engine on a automatic and my 2.0 subaru on an automatic the power is the same becuase the torque converter is the bottleneck. so what will the effect be if you put in a larger gear? i don`t know.

red is subaru black is vw

what i do know is if you want to drive faster then 120km/h. you must adjust your steering, brakes and grip. because my standard bus is all over the place at that speed.[/i]


Last edited by fahtal on Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:17 pm; edited 2 times in total
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pgtips
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
now i`m driving with an original vw flexplate with an cutom made core to fit the subaru crankshaft


ouch, those problems look nasty. How long have you been running with the current set-up and changes to the torque converter?

Are the problems because the adaptor plate for the auto gearbox was incorrect?

I will not be on-line again for a few days but it is interesting to see what you have done here. I hope your knee is better as well.
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fahtal
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ha my knee... that is a whole different story. the knee is still instable so they are going to straigten it. I got cowboy legs;)

From the first run over the conversion there was a vibration in the bus. i tried evertning. from changing the position of the engine mount tot adjusting the exhaust mounts. but nothing worked untill i changed the flexplate.

at first the torque converters lasted about 2000 miles now I drove about 6000 miles without any problems.

and yesh the problem was the adapterplate en flexplate i bought from ds-tuning. the allignment was wrong of both plates and the flexplate wasn't flexible. combined with the fragile construction of the "tube" on the torque converter.
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