What to replace on EJ25

czm · Force Sensitive Joined: 07 Aug 2015 Posts: 14

Hi there
I have just pulled a EJ25 from a donor Subaru and are going to get it ready to put in my T25

I am obviously doing the head gaskets while it is out however what else should I look at doing while the engine is out?

Might as well do the lot while I can.

Thanks

Kai · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:35 am Post subject:

Behind the flywheel.

There is a large plate, is an oil ventilation baffle plate or something. if yours is plastic change it for the later metal version as they're prone to cracking.

Also another smaller plate. Pull the cap of and reveal this with instant gasket. Change your flywheel oil seal at the same time.

Cambelt. Water and oil pumps if your doing everything.

Assuming your swapping out a water cooled engine take your temperature gauge sensor and swap that over also as its a git to get too once it's all back together.
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czm · Force Sensitive Joined: 07 Aug 2015 Posts: 14

Awesome - thanks Kai

I now have the lump out, cleaned and ready to be striped and built back up with what you suggest

My other question is regarding the loom (which is still in the donor). I cant seem to find a good guide on how to take it out.

The one rjes has up on his site is OK but none of the pictures show up or are missing

Any other guides people know about?

Thanks again

Sorry one more question, does anybody know if this carrier bar will work with the rjes bell housing>?
http://www.rockymountainwesty.com/Subaru_Engine_Carrier_Bar_p/rmw-ec01.htm

I am looking at this one as they also offer the low profile sump which I will need (due to lowered on custom 100mm dropped springs).
I have read they all the low profile sumps do not work well with the rjes carrier.

Kai · Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:30 pm Post subject:

Regarding the loom. Cut off the connectors you know your not going to use. Lights, indicators wiper motor extra....... If your not sure then leave it be. You will be required to pull the dashboard out entirely and also the air box and blower motor all behind the dash. If you draw a line across the front seats, any loom reaching to the back of the car from this line you won't need. In fact their is usually a huge double mult pin connection behind the dash which separates the loom. In layman terms the loom is in 3 pieces. Engine, front of car and rear of car. Cut all the connections off the air /blower/ box behind the dash as you won't need any of this. Think their is a guide on aussieveedubbers about DIY loom pulling. However if you pull the loom out entirely you obviously cant go wrong.

Engine carrier looks ok I guess as it retains the stock Subaru mounts. Not sure myself. Also don't waste money on a shortened loom. Copy the one from Ricolas website. It retains the same oil level as stock, you don't have to modify your dipstick with new levels and it's also free.
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czm · Force Sensitive Joined: 07 Aug 2015 Posts: 14

Thanks again m8
Very helpful

Dont suppose you have a link tot he sites/articles you mention?

fahtal · Initiate Jedi Joined: 02 Feb 2015 Posts: 38

i did it the other way around.

first the loom and when i got is out i attched it to the engie and tested it. if it worked i didn`t cut away to much. maybe t is smart to test before you go stripping it further. so get it of the car. go work on your engine and put the engine in de t25. then attache the loom and test. then start stripping every thing useless.

i did allot of stripping while the engine was running. cut to much the check engine light went on or the engine stalled;)

furthermore i labeled every wire/connector with marking tape. also the lights radio heater wires. its much easier to strip when you kind of know what the wires are for.

also keep some nice connectors they will come in handy for other projects. i used the waterproof connectores of the headlights for my solar panel setup.

Kai · Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:00 pm Post subject:

I meant don't bother buying a shortened sump. Not loom. Too many cocktails at the pool Cool

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Kai · Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:17 am Post subject:

Guide to pulling a loom.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053

Dont do what this guy does and cut everything out though. You'll make alot of extra work for yourself. There should be no need to cut any sections of the harness out whilst removing it from the car either. If some thing is preventing you from progressing with the loom removal then better to remove the blockage then to cut the loom. You can label everything up but it's not needed. Once you've cut the engine harness out you'll have open circuit wires which you will cross reference the ecu pin out guide and you'll know what they're for. If you don't have a label machine then use gaffer tape and permanent marker. Make big labels. Biro and masking tape will literally last a couple of weeks before the labels come off and the biro disappears.

Myself and fathel have different methods of doing loom work.
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Kai · Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:36 am Post subject:

More reading for you. Phase one engines are pretty easy going.

http://vwkd.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=5249
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Kai · Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 10:37 am Post subject:

What model and year is your engine from?
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czm · Force Sensitive Joined: 07 Aug 2015 Posts: 14

its a MY2000 SOHC Outback Manual EJ25

And thanks you for all the help, its much appreciated and I am sure there will be loads more questions once I get stuck in.

1Kingy79 · Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 7:11 pm Post subject:

If you are struggling for your loom I have done a few. I usually just take everything out up to the A-posts unless it's a turbo model then take the fuel controller too from the back

I charge £300 to strip it back and get it to a position where it simply ready to connect in to your bus