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T25 AAZ

 
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BDP.com
Wannabe
Wannabe


Joined: 26 Jan 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Bristol

PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:52 pm    Post subject: T25 AAZ Reply with quote

Hello and welcome to my conversion thread

Here's what I did

P reg golf 1.9TD AAZ - later style injection pump with all the extra wires.

My T25 1.6 CS diesel

Right so I pull the old engine out but before I did I labeled all the water hoses and electric wires (top tip saves so much time later)

Parts I removed from my CS engine to use on the AAZ

Engine support bars
Sump + oil filler neck
Oil pump
Throttle arm
Thermostat cover
Cooling hoses
Flywheel and clutch
Back box

On the AAZ I'm using the standard turbo and manifold but I'm using a AHF inlet manifold and a intercooler from a Renault 5 GT Turbo.

Every gasket that can be replaced bar the head gasket I have changed and for the sake of 40 its well worth it, I'm also using a 80c thermostat to help with the cooling.

Now I removed the sump oil pump, flywheel and clutch inlet and turbo manifolds, thermostat cover and all the cooling hoses from the AAZ.

Turbo + Intercooler

I reindexed the turbo so the drain hole is facing downwards, to do this I just undid the 4 bolt on the side stuck it in a vice and using a soft hammer tapped it round.
I cut the standard oil drain pipe and removed the fexi part (I had 2 of these) I rebent it so it will point in the correct direction, on the bottom one I cut into it rebent it then welded it back up, in the sump I marked where I thought the best location would be drilled 3 holes and then mounted it with a little sealer on the sump. I will be using some oil pipe and clamps with a support bracket off the turbo.
I removed the EGR and blocked the inlet manifold off.
I rebent the oil feed pipe slightly job done.
The wastegate actuator has 2 pipes 1 big and black (rubber) this goes to the turbo banjo bolt second smaller pipe used to go to the EGR system this is now not fitted on mine so I left 3" of pipe on the it (just dangling down) do not block this pipe up it's now a breather pipe!

I'm using a Renault 5 GT Turbo intercooler and I have found it fits inside the rear left panel (behind the light cluster) great if you remove the metal tray (battery tray) I did this on mine as it had rot in it so I had to replace it anyway I simply cut it out and added some extra support to the panels. then made a mount up to hold the intercooler.
A few bits of stainless steel and some turbo rubber hoses have sorted the intercooler out I have made 1 pipe so that it bolts onto the inlet manifold (as per the AHF setup).

Now when I start it up it had an air leak on one of the intercooler pipes, it made a whistle sound from the exhaust! simple check of all the pipes and then it was running 100%

To see how much boost you are running up a T piece on the pipe which goes from the fuel pump to inlet manifold and stick a boost guage on it.

Exhaust

I got two 90 degree bends in 2" mild steel and using the standard back box (CS) and the AAZ down pipe I made my exhaust up I cut the cat off and cut the excess off the 90's before welding it all back together again it sits 1" lower then the sump but thats not too much of a problem.

Water Cooling

Now the standard AAZ cooling is different to the T25's, also the sensors are larger and the oil cooling set up is slightly different so I just removed all these pipes and replaced them with the T25's simple and easy I'm still using the T25 header tank as well.
The thermostat points straight along the block on the aaz and once you have fitted the engine mount it stops the pipe going on so I swapped it for the CS one which is at an angle so the pipes clear the mount.
I'm also using a 80c thermostat to help keep the temp down.

Oil cooling

I'm using a little oil cooler and a sandwich plate between the oil filter and engine to help keep the temp down, its mounted behind the O/S rear tyre (I have mud flaps) so it should get good air flow and not damage to use by stones etc.

Throttle Cable
I removed the top spring, and all the junk so it was down to the lower spring and cover only, I then fitted the CS arm which I had to mod slightly so that the springs would catch better on the back, then I refitted the 10mm Hex bolt and refitted the standard throttle cable making sure I had full movement on the pedal and arm.

Flywheel + Clutch

Standard T25 diesel flywheel and clutch with a new seal fitted and fitted a spigot, simple as that.

Wiring

Now I hate wiring but it's not that bad even if you have the later pump, on the later AAZ you have alot more electrics on the pump not to worry as you only need 1 wire, on the back of the pump there is a little black box, remove this (I cut into it with a small electric cutter) you will see the fuel cut off valve stick your wire on that JOB DONE

I have a manual choke so I have removed the electric set up and fitted my cable back on.
All the other wires on the pump are not needed so you can just cut them off at each base, you can put a early pump on these or fit another from a renault if you like.

Gearbox

I have a 5 speed 8H box fitted all I did was drain it and put in freash oil.


Thats about it really and apart from adding a few extra items like the intercooler - oil cooler and gauge senders/sensors it was very easy to do.

I'll add some photos when I get chance to take my camera down.

A few points to note.

If and when you do this do not change ANYTHING on the pump until you have it fitted and done a test run, it will save alot of time! I move the throttle arm when I removed the linkage, 10 minutes of messing about with it fixed the problem but as I changed the arm when the engine was out getting it started with the throttle in the wrong position was a pain!

SMOKE My AAZ had a duff turbo when I got it and it kicked out loads of black smoke when it kicked in (3500ish revs) now these engines get water in the bores after time sitting which will give you white smoke out the back, this smoke stops after a while! when I fired mine up it filled my workshop with white smoke.

Fuel lines so by doing this conversion you would of removed your fuel lines - thus the fuel would drain back down the lines and it can take a while to get the fuel back up again, don't kill your battery buy a can of easy start or start you barsteward. REMOVE YOUR GLOW PLUG WIRING ON THE ENGINE stick some easy start in (you don't need alot) and turn it over, it will fire and start pulling the diesel back to the engine then run on diesel, turn it off refit your glow plug wiring job done!

FUEL PUMP Right there is a vacuum pipe which comes off the top of the fuel pump this goes to a banjo bolt on your inlet manifold so depending on which manifold you use etc you will have to drill and tap a small hole (so do this before you refit the inlet manifold)











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splitbusvanatic
Jedi Master
Jedi Master


Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 318
Location: Co. Mayo, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great first post.
Very handy DIY there.
I have a CS 1.6d in my Splitty mounted as would be in a T25.
I incidently have a good aaz under the bench.
Alas I only have the standard diesel 4spd box as of yet.
I heard that mating the aaz to the t25 diesel 4 speed gearbox is pointless.

Your van must be a flyer compared to what it was.
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BDP.com
Wannabe
Wannabe


Joined: 26 Jan 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Bristol

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
Thanks for the post, yes the van is alot better on power and fuel since the aaz went in.
The 5 speed box makes a lot of difference on the motorways but I did increase my rear tyre sizes to help with the rpm.

The test drive was a 2000 mile trip around the uk.
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We are a Bristol based company that specialises in classic vehicle restoration and engine conversions.
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doppelganger
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Joined: 09 Feb 2006
Posts: 778
Location: newmarket

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BDP.com wrote:
Hi
Thanks for the post, yes the van is alot better on power and fuel since the aaz went in.
The 5 speed box makes a lot of difference on the motorways but I did increase my rear tyre sizes to help with the rpm.

The test drive was a 2000 mile trip around the uk.


was john o groats to lands end its first trip out?
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11.23@127mph. 1.47 60ft. 2.85sec 0-60mph
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BDP.com
Wannabe
Wannabe


Joined: 26 Jan 2013
Posts: 6
Location: Bristol

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

doppelganger wrote:
BDP.com wrote:
Hi
Thanks for the post, yes the van is alot better on power and fuel since the aaz went in.
The 5 speed box makes a lot of difference on the motorways but I did increase my rear tyre sizes to help with the rpm.

The test drive was a 2000 mile trip around the uk.


was john o groats to lands end its first trip out?


Yes Friday 5pm I put the new tyres on the back drive it home for the first time, loaded it up with a weeks worth of camping gear a 3 bike trailer with 2 50cc mopeds on the back and myself my girl and a mate and headed off up north.

We stopped in birmingham to collect another moped and person with camping gear then headed to John o groats fully loaded, we arrived on Saturday at 9.30 am after almost 1000 miles and not one problem with the van.

Over the next week we did over a 1000 miles to lands end ( collecting a few broken down mopeds along the way) the van was amazing and the only problem was a duff turbo which let go on the way home after over 2000 miles.
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BlastingDiePast.com

We are a Bristol based company that specialises in classic vehicle restoration and engine conversions.
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